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Old 12-20-2016, 11:10 AM   #1531 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

Are there any shift knobs for the Miata that don't suck and aren't made of metal? I like the idea of stuff like the Voodoo short-shift knobs but Kansas heat and cold make an aluminum shift knob an uncomfortable proposition. I was looking at this but I have no idea idea what company makes it to even look up reviews.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:15 AM   #1532 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

Joyfast super short or GTFO. Seriously. It will be the last shift knob you ever buy.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:16 AM   #1533 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by 100percentjake View Post
Are there any shift knobs for the Miata that don't suck and aren't made of metal? I like the idea of stuff like the Voodoo short-shift knobs but Kansas heat and cold make an aluminum shift knob an uncomfortable proposition. I was looking at this but I have no idea idea what company makes it to even look up reviews.
A suggestion: beer can/bottle cozies are almost perfectly sized to sit over any knob of reasonable size and cover the knob, keeping summer sun away and making them quite touchable even after hours of exposure.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:17 AM   #1534 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

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Originally Posted by 100percentjake View Post
Are there any shift knobs for the Miata that don't suck and aren't made of metal? I like the idea of stuff like the Voodoo short-shift knobs but Kansas heat and cold make an aluminum shift knob an uncomfortable proposition. I was looking at this but I have no idea idea what company makes it to even look up reviews.
Moss makes them!


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A suggestion: beer can/bottle cozies are almost perfectly sized to sit over any knob of reasonable size and cover the knob, keeping summer sun away and making them quite touchable even after hours of exposure.
That's an awesome suggestion!
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:21 AM   #1535 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

For the record, the plain black Voodoo knob on The Tick was the only part that was transferred from his predecessor. I've had it for well over a decade and have learned how to deal with it in warmth and cold. I have an old Enthuza exhaust beer cozy from Jason himself that has occupied a space in the console solely for the purpose of keeping the shift knob touchable when I leave the car in the summers.

BTW...if you're not using gloves to drive in cold temps, I have to question your judgement. A cold knob should never be an issue.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:23 AM   #1536 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

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Originally Posted by Louros View Post
Joyfast super short or GTFO. Seriously. It will be the last shift knob you ever buy.
I was looking at the Jass Type-R. Half the price, but the aluminum is probably a lot lighter than the stainless-steel Joyfast.

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A suggestion: beer can/bottle cozies are almost perfectly sized to sit over any knob of reasonable size and cover the knob, keeping summer sun away and making them quite touchable even after hours of exposure.
I always used an old sock, but that's a good idea. It just seems like such a hack, though. Something like the Joyfast or Jass knobs but made with a leather covering would be ideal. I might end up seeing if I could sew something up myself to cover a metal knob.

EDIT: Just found this. Stainless steel but people say the coating does a great job of keeping it from getting too hot or cold.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:28 AM   #1537 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

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Originally Posted by 100percentjake View Post
I was looking at the Jass Type-R. Half the price, but the aluminum is probably a lot lighter than the stainless-steel Joyfast.
Believe it or not, weight in a shift knob is good. You will not like the shift feel of a lighter knob.
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I always used an old sock, but that's a good idea. It just seems like such a hack, though. Something like the Joyfast or Jass knobs but made with a leather covering would be ideal. I might end up seeing if I could sew something up myself to cover a metal knob.
Feel free, but like I said, the cozy is an almost perfect size. If you had a plain one, a passerby could be forgiven for not thinking you'd bought something special for the purpose and not just recycled something else.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:31 AM   #1538 (permalink)
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Believe it or not, weight in a shift knob is good. You will not like the shift feel of a lighter knob.
I meant the lightness as a con. My wooden homemade tall shifter I have now is light and it makes the already-not-great-feeling 6-speed absolutely horrible to use, so I'm trying to find the shortest, heaviest thing I can. Right now it's between the Joyfast and Moddiction Anvil 2
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:07 AM   #1539 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

If you can get your hands on the new Greddy knob, that might be perfect for you. I havent weighed it yet but its just about the heaviest knob Ive felt, and a little bit bigger than a ping pong ball.

Edit dis juan http://shopgreddy.com/14510520.html
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:31 AM   #1540 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

Just find yourself a decent pair of lined leather gloves. Make sure they're not too bulky and you should be fine. They can be found for $15-$30 for a decent set.
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Old 01-03-2017, 11:34 PM   #1541 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

I want to buy a cockpit cover that will fit over my rollbar - I have the top removed and would love to enjoy some top-down days without having to put it back in.
There are a number of threads about this on other sites but most of them are 5-10+ years old and the products mentioned are no longer on the market (California pop top for the 90-05, Crazy Red, etc)
Moss sells a cockpit cover which they say will not work with a rollbar and they suggest you use the convertible top cover (http://www.mossmiata.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=132858) Anyone ever use this with top down and a rollbar? If not - what are you using?

edit - spelling

Last edited by tm.k; 01-04-2017 at 08:09 AM.
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Old 01-04-2017, 07:20 AM   #1542 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

It specifically says you use it with the top up.

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Coverking convertible top cover delivers a layer of UV and light weather protection for your top, and is easy to install. Full coverage is smart for extra security, it keeps prying eyes out. Works with top up in the closed position.
It's only to be used to keep the sun off your top.
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Old 01-04-2017, 07:23 AM   #1543 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

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I want to buy a cockpit cover that will fit over my rollbar - I have the top removed and would love to enjoy some top-down days without having to put it back in.

There are a number of threads about this on the other sires but most of them are 5-10+ years old and the products mentioned are no longer on the market (California pop top for the 90-05, Crazy Red, etc)

Moss sells a cockpit cover which they say will not work with a rollbar and they suggest you use the convertible top cover (http://www.mossmiata.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=132858) Anyone ever use this with top down and a rollbar? If not - what are you using?


Your best bet is to buy an original Mazda tonneau cover (cockpit cover) and take it to a good seamstress, boat cover place, or convertible place and see what they can fabricate for you. I once chased that rabbit hole and concluded it was more money for me than it was worth (and this was after having already bought the tonneau).
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Old 01-04-2017, 08:06 AM   #1544 (permalink)
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It specifically says you use it with the top up.



It's only to be used to keep the sun off your top.
I know, but on the page, for their cockpit cover, it says "This cover is not designed for cars with a roll bar installed. If you have a roll bar, we recommend you buy a "Convertible Top Cover" (the one I linked) instead." For some reason when I wrote that at 1 AM I figured that the rollbar could hold it up without a top lol

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Your best bet is to buy an original Mazda tonneau cover (cockpit cover) and take it to a good seamstress, boat cover place, or convertible place and see what they can fabricate for you. I once chased that rabbit hole and concluded it was more money for me than it was worth (and this was after having already bought the tonneau).
In the same boat as you there. I thought about it but it doesn't seem worth the money.
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Old 01-06-2017, 04:33 PM   #1545 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

i grazed a wall kind of hard. one of my headlights got pushed upward and now doesn't retract. the lamp itself works fine still. i have a new bracket already, but would the stuck in place problem be solved with a new headlight motor? or is there something else i could be forgetting
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Old 01-06-2017, 04:37 PM   #1546 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

Sounds like you probably pushed up that corner of the of the front end on the inside, pushing upwards the mounting points of the headlight assembly.
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Old 01-06-2017, 05:19 PM   #1547 (permalink)
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that's what i was afraid of at first, but the fender, bumper, and turn signal don't look pushed in as far as i can tell. just the headlight lid was crumpled slightly.
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Old 01-06-2017, 05:24 PM   #1548 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

Some pics of the damage would help in determining what is potentially wrong.
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Old 01-06-2017, 07:29 PM   #1549 (permalink)
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I have a euro NB1. I want to do a partial wire tuck by buying a harness and cleaning it up before installing it in the car. Can I use a harness from a car from the US?
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Old 01-06-2017, 09:44 PM   #1550 (permalink)
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Some pics of the damage would help in determining what is potentially wrong.
sorry for the late reply, i was still at work when i made the last post. here's a couple pictures taken just now, with the new headlight lid on. the (still old) bracket can't/won't close past the sleepy-eyed look.

i also take back part of my first statement. after another look, part of the fender is now noticeably flatter than the other side (circled in the second image). moral: don't work when stressed, everything goes over your head.

i'm hoping it's just the fender, and not the part that's behind it.


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Old 01-11-2017, 10:16 PM   #1551 (permalink)
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I have a nut question. Had my OEM wheels powdercoated mag blue back in December and bought a take-off set of chrome OEM lugs but wondering if a set of black Gorilla spline drive lugs would look better. The chrome lugs would flow with the chrome Flying M on the center caps but will they stand out? Will black stand out even more? Help me with my nuts!

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Old 01-12-2017, 06:55 AM   #1552 (permalink)
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I think that black lugs would kind of be subtle and understated, drawing more attention to the wheel itself, versus bright chrome lug nuts standing out against the darker wheel. I can't recall right now if the oem lug nuts were cone seat type or mag type with the washer. You don't want to use cone seat lug nuts on a wheel designed for mag type lug nuts.
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:33 AM   #1553 (permalink)
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I have a euro NB1. I want to do a partial wire tuck by buying a harness and cleaning it up before installing it in the car. Can I use a harness from a car from the US?
If it's a british car, then simply no.
If it's a 1.6, then simply no.
If it's a 1.8, then there will be slight differences in the wiring, namely as far as lights and sensors go. Euro 1.8s are slightly different, have some extra wiring in for the FPR control valve (non-existent in US cars), where the US ones have extra wiring for OBD and side markers, which Euro cars don't have.

You're better off buying a loom from someone in Europe with a car similar to yours.
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Old 01-12-2017, 11:12 AM   #1554 (permalink)
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I think that black lugs would kind of be subtle and understated, drawing more attention to the wheel itself, versus bright chrome lug nuts standing out against the darker wheel. I can't recall right now if the oem lug nuts were cone seat type or mag type with the washer. You don't want to use cone seat lug nuts on a wheel designed for mag type lug nuts.
I was thinking the same about the black being understated.

Initially bought the OEM lugs due to the differences in OEM and aftermarket seats. But over on m.net there is an ongoing discussion about using this style of Gorilla lug and several members have reported using them for years with zero issues. Had I known this ahead of time, I would have probably bought them vs. the OEM.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...iglink20337-20
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:52 PM   #1555 (permalink)
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I Initially bought the OEM lugs due to the differences in OEM and aftermarket seats. But over on m.net there is an ongoing discussion about using this style of Gorilla lug and several members have reported using them for years with zero issues. Had I known this ahead of time, I would have probably bought them vs. the OEM.
I can't remember if the oem lugs for newer mazdas were cone seat or mag seat, but I want to say cone seat. Now the majority of cone seat wheels, oem included, utilize the 60* seat, so aftermarket lug nuts would be compatible.
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:32 AM   #1556 (permalink)
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2000 NB 132,xxx miles
There is this rattle coming out from under the car by the clutch or transmission section.
I noticed that it only happens after long period of driving mainly at night, when the headlights are on OR If I turn on the car and is on neutral then I turn on the headlights and then hold the window switch up for about 10 second the sound comes out underneath the car close to the clutch. Is like a rattle. If I press the clutch It goes away and when I release it comes back. Hasn't affected the car in anyway.
Let me just make a chart, it'll make more sense.

Headlights on with clutch depressed: No Noise
Headlights on without clutch depressed: Noise
Headlights off with clutch depressed: No Noise
Headlights off without clutch depressed: No noise

Ive been searching around but I never get a straight answer. Thank you guys!
ps.
If you go on youtube and search : NB miata clutch noise
The first video that pops up is similar thing that is happening to my car.

:]

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Old 01-13-2017, 05:43 AM   #1557 (permalink)
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Default Re: THE quick question - quick answer thread

It's an NB?
It would make sense for the rattle to actually come from the headlights if it were an NA... But I don't see how headlights being on or off would cause any noise at all on the NB. Not related to the clutch at least. Maybe from the alternator...
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:17 PM   #1558 (permalink)
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It's an NB?
It would make sense for the rattle to actually come from the headlights if it were an NA... But I don't see how headlights being on or off would cause any noise at all on the NB. Not related to the clutch at least. Maybe from the alternator...
NB sir, I find it extremely odd. I was confused when i found out the headlights had an effect to this noise..
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:54 PM   #1559 (permalink)
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Not really from a Miata, but it is going in a Miata. I was trying to assemble the rocker arm assembly to the head and ran into a bit of trouble on the last bolt.

Here's the assembly:



When I first tried to install bolt #14, it was pretty difficult to turn compared to all the other bolts. At first, I thought it was some Hondabond that got into the bolt hole, but after turning a couple of times and then removing the bolt to check, it had some damage to the first couple threads:



Not really sure what to do with this right now. Anyone have any suggestions?

Since the bolt is pretty long and the damage is only at the first couple threads, I'm hoping this will be a simple fix. I'd prefer not to use a helicoil or something like that to fix it.
Could a chaser or tap fix this?
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:14 AM   #1560 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jad-Fg2 View Post
Not really from a Miata, but it is going in a Miata. I was trying to assemble the rocker arm assembly to the head and ran into a bit of trouble on the last bolt.

Here's the assembly:



When I first tried to install bolt #14, it was pretty difficult to turn compared to all the other bolts. At first, I thought it was some Hondabond that got into the bolt hole, but after turning a couple of times and then removing the bolt to check, it had some damage to the first couple threads:



Not really sure what to do with this right now. Anyone have any suggestions?

Since the bolt is pretty long and the damage is only at the first couple threads, I'm hoping this will be a simple fix. I'd prefer not to use a helicoil or something like that to fix it.
Could a chaser or tap fix this?
Bought a tap and die set an tested it out on the bolt. Works great! I think this'll fix my problem.

Last edited by Jad-Fg2; 01-22-2017 at 02:20 PM.
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