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| Engine & Transmission - *Sponsored by Track Dog Racing* Engine and Drivetrain related chats can be found in here. Power modifications, build-ups, etc. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CNJ
Posts: 240
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so as the title states i'm thinking about trying to make an all motor miata but i was wondering whats the fastest miata all motor wise taht anyones seen? and if anyone knows like HP/TQ ranges and whatnot much appricated guys
-bryan- |
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__________________
I like my women like my car.....TOPLESS |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 517
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Look at what Honda gets out of 1.8L, also look at what production motors do in racing trim.
If you played with everything and increased the revs you might be able to get to 250. Why do you want to go NA on a B6/BP. These are turbo motors. If you want NA performance look into an F20C swap. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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I don't have bad days
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 2,588
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300 on a bp?!?! that motor must have costs around the $15000.00 range if not more.
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__________________
1999 NB8C, TWM ITB's, Adaptronics, Maruha Header + Cams, Advan RG II's, 4.77's, 172whp 1994 NA8C, SCCA Spec Miata Race Car, 106whp 1991 NA6C, Turbo, Flares, Tein Flex, MSPNP, Work Equip 01's, Retro Goodness, 254whp 1993 FD3S, SP 13b, T04S 60-1, Haltech, V-Mount, 99 Spec Aero, RPF-1's, 417whp 1993 FD3S, SP 13b, T04S 60-1, V-Mount, RE-Amemiya Widebody in progress 2003 AP1, AP2V1 Wheels, Kuhmo XS, Daily Grind and 1993 Suburban K1500, The Lump |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CNJ
Posts: 240
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just thought it would be different and pretty cool at the same time...btw i know they're boost motors i had a 1994 protege DX with the jdm GTX motor
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__________________
I like my women like my car.....TOPLESS |
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#8 (permalink) |
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bad mother f......
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Takin a Cr.net break. '08 members..
Posts: 3,173
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I'm building an engine right now, and hope to get 140+ rwhp and +75-100 shot of n20 and at this point it looks like I'm going to be about $5500+ into it not including engine management, so... bring your wallet.
I know I'll love it when its done, but I kick myself a little bit every time I see my buddies 95m for sale for less than that... I dont have a lot of cash, but I've been slowly aquiring the parts since august... about $4k into it right now and nothing to show yet. |
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__________________
I'm flipping burgers overtime so I can get the sportmaxxxx of my dreams.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Mufasa in Training
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 15,836
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Basically, take the worth of your car and multiply it several times. That's probably conservative as an estimate. The long and short of it is that you can build a very powerful B6/BP, but:
1.) It will cost FAR more than a stock motor with some sort of forced induction 2.) For the same amount of money as most FI kits, it will make a lot less power (see point 1) 3.) At a certain power level, you'll have to decide whether or not this engine will be a street engine or track/strip. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Mufasa in Training
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 15,836
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Mufasa in Training
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 15,836
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Mufasa in Training
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 15,836
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#16 (permalink) |
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Sponsor
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 902
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My build cost about $5500.00 w/ Dyno tuning included and when we add cams which would give us 170 RWHP I would say maybe $1500 hundred with a Dyno tune you are looking at $7000.00 total. Yes FI is very fast but NA is a totally different animal. I've been pounding on my car for the last 2 years with no puff of smoke and I can run it hard all day long. Remember with our light weight Miata its all about gettting power to the ground and accelerating forward.
Jimmy FujiRacing |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,169
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#18 (permalink) |
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Sponsor
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 902
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Horsepower is easy to come by even on a Normally Aspirated Miata with Bolt in cams and a stand alone. Bryan is correct it can cost up to $10.000 depending on how much you do yourself. Even though my car is built for autox and moving more towards time attack/circuit I learned a lot at the dragstrip last Friday when we hit 13.9 in the 1/4. The last two runs we lined up against a Dodge SRT Turbo that had some mods like a down pipe. The Dodge smoked us both times with a 13.7 and 13.6. So even though he had much more HP it still takes time for him to catch up. What was interesting was that we had him on both runs in the 60',330',660' and 1/8 mile. Even my good friend Bob Palmblads old 280 RWHP supercharged Miata I can stay with him with only 150 RWHP up to 60 MPH. Bob's car did a 12.7 1/4 mile but if you build an all motor Miata I honestly believe that it can go just as fast. Only time will tell. Even for FI to go faster than 13 seconds it will cost some serious $$$. In the near future when I get to line up against some Turbo and Superchargers on a circuit track it will show how I stack up because I should be much slower than them. I know that it is going to take alot to stay with them because they are very fast. Try driving an IRTB, Turbo or SC and you will know that they all have their own benefits. To give you an idea I would never go FI again on a Miata but Bob Palmblad even knowing what my car does in competition he would still go the SC route because FI is fast no matter how you look at it. Sorry for it being lenghty but just wanted to share my experience.
Jimmy FujiRacing |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 517
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Why even bother NA tuning the stock motor? Throw in a F20C and be done with it.
Now I can see the point in ITBs, even on a stock motor. They make driving more enjoyable. But going insane and doing the works, or even $5000 in NA mods looks to be a total waste. If you are going to spend that much money on the motor you might as well match it tuning the suspension and improving the braking. It would also be wise to strengthen an reinforce the chassis. The point that im trying to make is that, unless you are going for acceleration times, the entire car needs work. If you are going to racing-spec out the motor your stupid not to do it to the whole car. If you really dislike your car so much that you are willing to spend $20,000 improving it, why not sell it. Use the money you would have wast-erhm, spent tuning it to buy something like an FD3s. After a couple thousand in reliability mods they are good platforms. If you ever drive one, they feel like a pissed off MX-5. The crisp turn in, good balance and mazdaness is all there. Besides their performance they are currently gaining value. |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Mufasa in Training
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 15,836
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Quote:
I hope you haven't taken all of the talk on M.net personally. Panda Trueno seems to be out of line, and several of us has tried to correct him. Even so, I have absolutely nothing personal against you (or even him, for that matter) and congratulate you for really achieving some impressive results! |
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#22 (permalink) | |
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bad mother f......
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Takin a Cr.net break. '08 members..
Posts: 3,173
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Quote:
A big reason I like mazdas is they are not on the honda bandwagon. I have owned several honda's in the past and each one was unreliable crap, so that has a lot to do with it. |
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__________________
I'm flipping burgers overtime so I can get the sportmaxxxx of my dreams.
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#23 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 201
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Well I guess I might be the closest one to what yall are talking about. I have a fully built 1.6L which is now a 1.7L. I am currently in the progress of trying to get a stand alone for my setup to maximize potential but it is running pretty good so far with the Fuji Kit.
Engine mods: 254 degree cams intake and exhaust Stainless 1mm oversized backcut valves Titanium valve springs and retainers Full Port and Polish Wiseco 11:1 Pistons Fuji Light weight flywheel Spec Stage 1 Clutch Fuji IRTB kit w/ piggy back All of this is connecting to a 99 rear end with a Torsen. Overall I have spent about $8000-$9000 on everything that I just mentioned. The car runs strong right now but will definately kill with a stand alone and some dyno tuning. I haven't been able to dyno it yet. I just recently put on my Fuji kit. I am expecting atleast 180 to the wheels. I thought about going turbo but I was shooting for a JDM style all motor lightweight racer. I had 3 AE86 and I love my miata more especially with the ITB's on it. When I get it dynoed I will post the results so everyone can see what you can do all motor, even with a 1.6. There are 20v hachi's out there with 250+ whp at 8,000+ on the 4AGs. I wanted to see what I can get out of an all motor 1.6 to keep weight down and stay true to the cars design. A nice small responsive motor that can throw the car around without any problems. Sorry about rambling, but what I'm trying to say is FI is overrated. It is the in thing to do, however, if done properly an FI can respond just as well if not better. After extensive research when I was in the deciding stage of all motor or FI, I did spreadsheets with all the prices and totals to compare. Any way I looked at it a proper FI setup would cost way more than my NA motor. *Just my two cents but I will keep yall posted. |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,169
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What you're doing ^^^ would be the way to go for NA, except I'd have gone with even higher compression, like 12-12.5:1. Maybe some even more aggressive cams, too. I'd also do a 6-speed with a short-ass rear-end, not sure what's available, but something in the 4.3-4.8 range.
The cool thing about NA is total responsiveness...and sound |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 201
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Well I don't have my numbers yet, but I'm expecting a decent amount of torque. I was actually gonna put in the 6 speed when I had my motor done but I ran out of money. It was either the rear end or the tranny. I chose the rearend. I didn't want to go to aggressive with the cams because I wanted to keep the car very streetable. I still need to get some new cams gears and am planning on an oil cooler kit as well. The higher than 11:1 compression pistons were out of my price range. Wiseco makes a 14:1 piston also, but I would only go that extreme with a pure track car. I'm pretty sure that a super high compression motor with more aggressive cams would lay down more than 200 easy.
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#27 (permalink) |
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Supporting Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pinson, AL
Posts: 1,653
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There's also more to grammar....like "than" not "then." LOL Sorry dude, just picking.
I plan to swap to a 1.8 after I am working full-time again, and down the line shoot for 170rwhp N/A. It would probably be a lot easier if I could find a 99-00 head and build from that, but if I end up picking up a BP from an Escort or Tracer LTS, I won't be too broken-hearted. My goal, all in all for my car though, is to focus on the fun factor, b/c to me, that is all that matters. Yes, money is important and people should build/spend within their financial limitations, but there is no dollar value to "fun" or the smile on your face when you make the fastest time at a local autoX, pull over 1g on a skidpad, or outrun your buddy's Datsun 510 on a local back road |
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__________________
Man, you know what reminds me of a 240sx? The 1984 Cadillac Eldorado. - VitaminT |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Supporting Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pinson, AL
Posts: 1,653
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LOL
Its all good man. I've been trying to adjust to sleeping from 7am until mid-afternoon b/c of the job I'll hopefully be starting soon. And let me tell you, sleeping until 3pm is quite impossible w/o the help of a fair amount of New Castle or something alcoholic. |
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__________________
Man, you know what reminds me of a 240sx? The 1984 Cadillac Eldorado. - VitaminT |
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