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megan engine mounts.

5K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  falcon 
#1 ·
anyone running these? is it worth to buy? or just stick to my planned mazda comp mounts?
 
#3 ·
what brand norman? and how streetable? should i go for the half and half comp/delrin setup? do you any dealers for delrin mounts?
 
#4 ·
I just picked up some of those Drifting Jellyfish mounts that LostSoul was selling a while back. The company is no longer around. An alternative would be mmr mounts. As far as streetability goes you'll just need a higher tolerance for nvh. All of your gauge cluster needles will wobble around between 1-3.5k rpm, cd's will skip, gauge cluster hood, steering column plastic pieces, and mirrors will vibrate quite a bit between those rpm's.

At idle its not noticeable at all and freeway speed rpm's are very smooth. Also, I wasn't really knocking on the mazdacomps but the difference was quite noticeable. Just imagine how your motor moves about at high rpm's now.. With the delrin units you can sit at 7k and nothing moves. :p

Edit: or go all the way

http://www.function7.com/products/mx5mnt
 
#5 ·
thanks for the info, anyway i've stripped out some stuff in the interior that you mentioned so i think i can live w/ the vibrations. if these megans are any stiffer than maz comps i might get it and pair it w/ ES diff bushings.

by the way norman, if I remember correctly you have a fidanza flywheel correct? I have the same setup w/ an exedy stage 1 clutch, the deceleration noise is starting to begin on high revs. how noisy is your set up? I bought some motul 300 gear oil just to see if it does anything to quiet it down a bit. It's prolly a waste of time trying to quiet it down. I'm actually starting to like the buzz. reminds me of hill climb time attack cars :)
 
#8 ·
Megan = overpriced MazdaComp.
MazdaComp are only 5% stiffer than Mazdaspeed...and MS only costs like $40/ea from your local dealership.
MMR is fine if you're n/a...but they don't like super hot downpipe temps and will melt/sag.
 
#13 ·
back from the dead so I can add to the knowledge base.

Megan seems to have found the "source" factory for OEM performance mounts (mazdaspeed, STI) and are reselling them as their own. I also have an STI and the "megan" motor, trans, and pitch mounts, and they are literally the SPT (OEM performance parts) pieces with a megan sticker slapped on. I bought them because they were cheaper than subaru dealers charged.

I have a set of MS mounts, they aren't that stiff. I'd love a set of poly, like the energy suspension diff mounts I run. They are soft enough not to kill you with nvh, but much stiffer than stock.
 
#16 · (Edited)
If anyone is running MS/MazdaComp mounts now and still has the old mounts, May I suggest a DIY mount:
http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=39335

I think they will very nicely fill the market gap between the softie mazdaComps & the solid delrin MMR
Did you even read the second page? It ripped off the metal mount. You can't use Window Weld-- due to the forces the engine mounts go through (compression and decompression) the rubber to metal bond is the weakest link as evidenced by that thread. You need a through-bolt instead of two studs interconnected with rubber. It is the design of the mount that is the problem.

I have the Megan mounts because I got them cheaper than the Mazdaspeeds would have costed. They feel slightly stiffer than stock... and as Erik/RoadsterTuner's info shows, stock mounts are about 50-60A durometer (MSM is stiffest) while stiffer alternatives would be 70-90A. A hockey puck or soft (70A) or hard (90A) skateboard wheels would make cheap alternatives.

The driver side mount is what tends to rip. I am going to go w/ a through-bolt mount on the passenger side, leave the MR mount on the driver side so it's not too harsh. I've ridden in a car w/ Erik's mounts on both sides-- it's really not too bad.

I did the Polyurethane in my Honda in 4 moounts. Several years later, they are still good. I put 3M window weld in my diff mounts on the Miata though.

EDIT: passenger side, not driver side
 
#18 ·
How about instead speak to someone who has had them in their car for these 1000s of miles you speak of instead of theory? You can talk theory all freakin day long but as it stands a bumble bee can still fly despite its supposed impossibility.
 
#21 ·
I am just not particularly trying to argue the merits of an ME analysis vs. someone's opinion on how well a particular part works. While first hand knowledge is great, the statement "the NVH wasn't too bad" is a totally subjective statement and could be true or false depending on who you ask. The solution of course is to try that part out yourself, but its hard to justify spending money on different mounts just to see which one you like. So we come to my statement, it was just meant to be an informative statement on what to expect from the part. And it sounds from your conclusion (...I see the RT mount for competition use (I believe he states that directly) that my analysis is correct. The NVH is probably not bearable for a car that sees autocrossing/track use and street use. Although I would like to make note here, that Eric is def. not stating that its for competition use only. He has compared it to the MMR mount and said its lower in NVH. Plus some good word choice IMPLIES (to me) that he thinks it would work well for street use (read yourself and pull your own conclusions:http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=37187&page=2).

Now onto the next thing, you said if you wanted a mount that absorbed vibration you would stick with OEM/MS mounts...well I want the in between here. I want to be able to track my car (I personally don't care much about noise and harness really, I just want my car stay in one piece and have fully functional gauges) and street it at the same time. I did the same thing in the MS3, poly engine and transmission mounts, It vibrated like mad...I liked it, but everything still functioned and my car didn't fall apart).

Through-Bolt design:
Let me go ahead and say this, you are practically buying a few grade 8 bits and the poly for looks. Why spend 80 bucks on that? Especially knowing that your mostly pay for the poly and it doesnt do much?
Also, consider the fact that poly stock especially in large quantity is pretty cheap. I am not going to post costs and what not, but I can tell you that someone along the line is making bukos of money on it, and I suspect its NOT eric, and you are paying for that. If you like I did some cost calculations (including speaking with my shop's machinist) on making this mounts and the price is surprising, I will pm you it if you like...Complete with measurements from the stock mount and a link to the poly source.

If you want a mount that isn't vibration isolating, then buy a through-bolt mount or fab one up yourself, but atleast know when you buy a through-bolt mount that you are spending money ON A BOLT and some semi-functional material at best! that goes for the MMR mount too.

If you want a mount that IS vibration isolating, then well...you are kinda **** out of luck. The mazdaComps are hardly trackable and the Function 7 mounts cost $300 dollars and are made for people putting down something like 400+hp. The market hole that I want to fill is in a vibration isolating mount that is trackable (hence why I want to do a poly filled stock mount).

PS. I went and read the 2nd page post. Your description was not very accurate, he did an engine swap with the mount still attached and suspects that it caused a rip in it (with a pretty good description of why) AND said that he for sure put too much strain on it. Plus, he admitted the window weld didn't stiffen up as much as he thought it would and he also did not line up the bolt heads correctly. I don't mean to be blunt, but no one has to to be dumb about it, just improve on his design and use stronger material. The **** is window weld after all, how stiff does it need to be?
 
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