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Help! something is wrong with my clutch/pedal

3K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  demoniam 
#1 ·
So I was driving home from work today and the clutch felt different all of a sudden, I would put it in gear and it would just go without me giving it any gas... so I thought my floor mat was obstructing it so I put that out of the way and tried it again, and it seems the pedal is way too soft, like it just falls down onto the floor and barely rebound back up.... I can't disengage or engage the clutch. Any ideas?? I just bought this thing a week ago and need it to go to work tomorrow.
 
#5 ·
Slave is behind the passenger wheel, you can probably reach them just be turning the wheels all the way to the left and reaching behind. It's not unusual to feel a bit of wet-ness below it from a leak, I think the majority of NAs have very slow leaks at their age, again, not unusual, but a lot could indicate your problem.

Could just be air in the system if the reservoir is filled to the proper level.

D. Bleeding of Clutch



  1. Jack-up the right front side of the car.
  2. Remove the wheel.
  3. Sit down beside the right front side wheel-well of the car (face towards where the shock absorber is located)
  4. Locate the slave cylinder (You can then see it on the left side part of shock absorber... which is directly connected to the clutch body.)
  5. An air bleed valve can be seen connected to the slave cylinder. Put the 8 mm close wrench on it and make sure that the air bleed valve is tightly closed. (Screw clockwise.)
  6. Put some rags near the trajectory path of the air bleed valve.
  7. Ask a friend to sit on the driver's seat.
  8. Make sure that the clutch fluid reservoir is full. Fill if necessary.
  9. Let him slowly push (by counting 3-5 seconds) the clutch pedal until it bottoms out.
  10. Let him maintain the clutch pedal on the floor until you give a signal to release it slowly.
  11. Now slowly loosen (screw counter-clockwise) the air bleed valve until a squirt of bubbly fluid emerge.
  12. Re-tighten the air bleed valve.
  13. Give a signal to your friend to release the clutch pedal slowly.
  14. Repeat process D-8 to D-13 (around 5 to 7 times) until you notice that the squirt that is coming from the air bleed valve is clear brake fluid and the clutch pedal feels tight.
  15. Make sure to tighten the air bleed valve.
  16. Fill the clutch fluid reservoir to the maximum level.
  17. Close the cap of the clutch fluid reservoir.
  18. Clean with water all the parts where the brake fluid spilled onto.
  19. Using the wheel wrench, re-install the wheel and tighten the nuts in an X pattern.
  20. Jack-down the right front side of the car.
  21. Completely tighten the wheels.
  22. Afterwhich, you can test drive and see if everything is OK.
 
#7 ·
save yourself the trouble, and replace both cylinders at once. If youdo one only, there is an 80%chance that the master will blow within 3 months. If you really want to do it right, replace the rubber line with a stainless one, and add a quality fluid.
 
#11 ·
x2

This was the first thing I did with my car. After getting the car from Dallas back to La, approx 2 weeks later same exact problem. No visible leaks on slave or master cylinder and so since I had the cash did all 3 at once. Clutch feels way better than when I got it with the SS line.
 
#17 ·
#19 ·
Ugh, I think my slave may have blown out on me. Clutch is engaging with the pedal almost fully on the floor, and gears are difficult to change.

The problem I have with this is that I just replaced the damned thing, along with the clutch and engine 5 months ago. The fluid is only 1/8" below the full marker, and I've yet to find an actual leak spot.

Has anyone had them blow out that quickly?
 
#23 ·
Dunno. I'm running the F1 flywheel, new OEM Exedy clutch/pp, new bearings, ss "short line", new (rebuilt) master/slave cyl from Gripforce, and fresh fluid. Tranny only has 105K on it.

I've heard that rebuilt ones do not last as long, but they should last longer than 5 months.
 
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