What is the plug size to remove the front thermostat housing with a coolant reroute
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The coolant setup is WRONG!
First:
It will take forever to get that car to normal operating temperature, you could as well remove the Thermostat completly.
if it's a dedicated race car, it might be fine, but this setup sucks for everything else.
To get your engine to heat up normally, you need to bypass the big cooling circuit with the radiator. when your engine is on operating temperature, the thermostat will open the big circuit.
the way it is on the drawing, every drop of water needs to go through the radiator all the time.will take forever to get to operating temperature, if at all!
Second:
If you use a remote thermostat, you need some flow there to get the hot water to the thermostat so that the bimetal can open the thermostat at all.
ok, now i see what you are saying. now, what if instead of running the heater hose from the back, i pull water from the block and route that to the mixing manifold? the block has a water source that is plugged from the factory but can easily be converted to a coolant line and just run coolant from there to the mixing manifold. my setup also, probably won't have the remote thermostat. my goal is to run the reroute off the back of the head with a kia waterneck, but without running any heater hose lines. like i stated, i can bring in coolant from the back of the block to the mixing manifold into the mix so there is coolant flow, just not from the head. would this work?Yes it is wrong.
Like i said in my two previous posts.
As long as the termostat is closed, you'll have NO coolant flow/cycling through the block.
Even worse if you use a remote thermostate, as you have a big tube of not moving water that has to be warmed up first before the thermostat opens.
How do you think that the water cycles inside the block according to your diagramm as long as the thermostat is closed?
You'll have no coolant flow through the waterpump, all you have is the small fins of the waterpump that stirr in the coolant. Ever looked at the coolant connections between block and head? Maybe a quarter of an inch wide, do you really think the waterpump creates enough turbulence to move water through these holes to mix hot and cold water? The waterpump is a pump, not a mixer. It is designed to cool the engine by PUMPING water through it.
If there is no coolant flow during warmup, you'll get local areas of overheating (upper cylinderwalls, head) where the water is already boiling DURING WARMUP, while the water before the remote thermostat or down the block has maybe 50°C.
The key to good cooling is to move the water through the block all the time. During warmup, you'll only want to cycle the water through the block to get the engine to operating temp as soon as possible. To achieve this, you use a small circuit:
waterpump - block - head - back to the inlet of the waterpump
to maintain operating temp, you use a bigger circuit that allows cooling of the water:
Waterpump - block - head - thermostat - radiator - bach to the inlet of the waterpump
The problem is:
the small circuit is open all the time.
If it flows not enough water, you'll risk local overheating when the thermostat is still closed.
If it flows too much water, you'll loose overal cooling capacity.
The heater acts as a restrictor, so if you remove it, you'll have to reduce coolant flow in the small circuit somehow.
Guess I'm sounding like a BEGI spokesman, but this is what I used:I was trying to do this with the least amount of custom parts possible as it is hard to find the spacer for the rear which has the heater hose outlet... which I can supply the mixing manifold with, and get rid of any lines from the front water neck.