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Rear main seal leak so new clutch,flywheel, and possible rebuild

2K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  redfred18t 
#1 ·
I found out the other day that I have a rear main seal leak after spotting the dye I put in the oil glowing in my face where the transmission meets the block.

Defeated, I tried to locate some resources to get this taken care of. I thought that the best way to go about this is to replace the clutch, flywheel and a possible transmission rebuild (even though it doesn't need one) while the seal is being replaced.

I have been searching all night about clutch's and flywheels because this is my first time buying one. In my last car I had a ACT stage 2 clutch installed by the previous owner. It was phenonmenal. I loved the engagement and and sturdiness of the hard pedal. I surprisingly wanted more stiffness as I was used to it daily driving
(delivering pizza's, and really having my first stick shift even though I was taught how to drive one prior)

I saw that Jscspeed is having a (Black Friday/ Weekend Sale) where I can recieve a sustantial amount of savings if I buy ANY of their products by Monday.

So I browsed around and came across FIDANZA Clutch kits.

What Do YOU all know about the Fidanza 3.2 clutch kit along with the Fidanza Lightened 8lb flywheel?

I am ready to purchase these items this weekend at a whopping 700.00 bucks.

Enlighten Me
 
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#2 ·
Can't say much on the clutch, but I have heard the flywheels are top notch quality.

It also might be a good time to look at your rubber shift boots. Those tend to need replacing after awhile, so this would also be an opportune time to do that as well.
 
#3 ·
I will consider that as well. After this install will I need to do anymore with the drivetrain or is that all and I can work on other things?


FYI the fidanza 3.2 clutch kit is 382.00

and the 8lb aluminum flywheel is 316.00
 
#4 ·
Well depends on what you're trying to accomplish. A complete trans rebuild is probably unnecessary.

Depending on your car's mileage you might want to flush the diff fluid as well. I know for NAs the interval is something like 30k for the trans and roughly the same for the diff. My diff fluid looked like used motor oil after 120k lol I doubt the original owner ever changed it.

Just give your car a once over and check all the fluids, spark plugs/wires, rad, ect.
 
#5 ·
Tranny and diff fluid has already been replaced just the clutch fluid needs to get changed along with the gear box fluid.

The spark plugs, radiator, wires are done. No need to worry about that with aftermarket replacements. I have 111k ish miles
 
#6 ·
Well sounds like you're good to go outside of the clutch and flywheel.
 
#9 ·
The 4 puck clutch kit is not going to be bought. I'm considering the 6 puck because of more friction surface and longer life span then the 4 along with heat tolerance. I have been talking with mike from jsc speed tonight and He is an amazing guy to be chatting with me on a Sunday evening to make sure i make a smart buy.
 
#10 ·
I'd reccomend an XTD chromoly flywheel for around 200shipped on ebay (weighs around 9lbs IIRC) and a SPEC clutch with the aluminum preasure plate....getting them for a 1.6L model will be even less weight & make the car want to rev even more.
 
#15 ·
I daily my car with the 949 twindisc....(2 unsprung clutch discs similar to that) it's not bad the hardest parts to get used to are:

lightswitch engage/diengage...very little room to "slip" it
harsher engagement.....not srpings & less surface area than a full disc

other than that I like no springs better, less weight = quicker revving


in all honesty though unless you plan to seriously track the car every weekend or have a lot more than the stock power I'd look at getting the same stuff you're looking at but in the 1.6L size further reducing weight
 
#17 ·
I've read 1.6L Fidanzas have issues with deceleration noise and do not come with the 6x flywheel bolts (only an issue if you have a 1.8 and trying to use 1.6L. Also general issues w/ aluminum (vs. steel) flywheels as far as drivability issues and heat dissipation?

I've heard ACT HDs sometimes have squealing issues.

One thing I'm concerned about is if these higher stage clutches would put more stress on the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder? After having these go out on me previously, I'd rather go w/ a clutch that is easy on them... but want a light fly for the rev-ability.

I'm considering Fidanza 1.6L fly, with clutchnet organic unsprung (I like how the 949 cars' drivetrain is so solid, hopefully this is the missing piece) and OEM pressure plate. Any thoughts?
 
#18 ·
I would assume they do put more strain on your hydraulics, but I know for sure they will put more strain on the crankshaft.

Ultimately, they are eventual wear parts, so its not surprising you had to replace them (not sure at what mileage you did that)...with that said, I don't think you should be concerned if they are new.
 
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