Any gap towards the rear of the hood when it's closed with these things on? I had a pretty good gap on my '90 but saw someone post that it can be fixed by mounitng the struts 180deg from what the instructions say. Fixed it somewhat but not 100%.
Any gap towards the rear of the hood when it's closed with these things on? I had a pretty good gap on my '90 but saw someone post that it can be fixed by mounitng the struts 180deg from what the instructions say. Fixed it somewhat but not 100%.
No issues on the NBs with these.
Mine actually gaps a bit....did the install yesterday. The gap actually wasn't too bad and we "massaged" the mounts to get it a bit more flush. Not too bad at all and once tightened, it was pretty dialed in.
R-Speed makes a good product very affordable. The instructions were slightly vague as in the diagrams were of no use almost. But with all that aside, the install is pretty self-explanatory.
Total necrothread, but I just thought I'd toss in my experience.
The included instructions were just shy of useless (for anything other than Engrish entertainment purposes), but it's a simple enough kit that a person can figure it out pretty quickly once looking at the car and all the parts. There are lots of "left-over" parts. All you really need are the lifts, the threaded extensions, a pair of small washers and the set of ball mounts. I didn't use the included phillips-head screws because I already had some stainless button cap screws which are even lower in profile, but most people would probably want to use them. So I was left with a handful of extra washers, lockwashers, and the screws.
Some people will suggest removing the fender bolt behind the hood lift ball and leaving it out entirely rather than installing the included phillips-head screw, but that idea doesn't thrill me. So in order to make the hood lifts clear without pushing my hood up at the hinges, I had to install the body of the lift to the fender side with the threaded extension piece between the rod and the hood. I then had to use a mallet and wood block to "gently massage" the fender seams downward slightly at the rear bolt location. I also trimmed about 3/4" from each end of the rubber hood-cowl seal. These steps were enough to give me adequate clearance to avoid putting contact/pressure on the gas lift.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
ClubRoadster.net
2.1M posts
35.9K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to Mazda Miata MX5 owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about Mazdaspeed performance, modifications, troubleshooting, racing, maintenance, and more!