Ok so I've been running these arms for 17,xxx miles.
Here are my main gripes about the TCs. And I'm not the only one having these issues, other people have consequently taken them off of their cars, because there is not a solution (doward, darkdrifter).
-They contact the subframe on bumps/dips. When they contact the subframe, there is no longer any travel. Since there is no travel, all of the momentum of the impact gets transferred to the adjustment bolt. Think... your control arm is now a solid, non-moving piece. Naturally, something has to give. And give it does. After repeated hits, the bolt bends. So far I think I am the only person that has managed to BREAK a bolt. And thank God I was going slow when it happened. When the bolt breaks, you have nothing keeping your camber in check. The top of your wheel/tire hits the inner fender on the inside, the subframe. There's a nice piece of sharp metal at that location, coincidentally. At high speeds, I'd be surprised if it didn't blow the tire immediately. I was only going 25-30mph.
I contacted grinder, who I bought the arms from, and they had TC send me a replacement adjustment bolt (it's welded onto the piece that attaches at the knuckle).
All was well until I decided to check on it a week later. The bolt was bent. That's when I figured out what was happening. The bolt just bends and bends and bends till it breaks.
I figured I could grind away a bit of my subframe where the contact was happening. So I did. Painted where I ground off material, installed everythign again, checked it again a week later. STILL HITTING. Ground some more, and it was as much as you can possibly grind away. Checked a week later. Still hitting.
There's nothing more I can do. I still hit on bumps. I took my old adjustment bolt and drilled it out of the mount for the knuckle (the U-shaped piece in pictures) and had a guy at work weld in a high strength bolt. I haven't noticed it bending at all yet. I have .25" of clearance between the TC arm and the subframe, even after grinding material away.
Here's where the arm hits:
Here's where it breaks:
And here's WHY it hits:
I am also having issues with their choice of bearing. I'm assuming that where it mounts in the subframe, their weird ball/cone type bearing is supposed to rotate. Except it refuses to. So now my entire control arm assembly is rotating within the subframe. Steel on steel, which is eating away at my subframe ears. I have no clue how long before the damage is irreversible. I thought about figuring out how to make a stock bushing fit in there, but the tubes are so much smaller than stock, and I'd still have the other issues.
I also had issues with the nuts backing off. I got my alignment done right after doing all my suspension work, and did a road rally. At the end, my right rear had like -6* of camber! The nut had backed off. I took it back and they locktighted the nuts. After replacing the first adjustment bolt, I locktighted with the blue compound. The nut backed off within a day. So I red locktighted. I can still here them making noise, it's from the threads being loose within the other threads. Whether or not that's from running them when they were loose until I could fix it remains to be determined.
The problem I have with all of this is, TC obviously didn't do their homework. The people who bought their **** are doing their R&D work for them. Or so I thought. I emailed grinder, got the phone # of the guy from TC who sent me that replacement bolt, and I called him. He told me to send the pics I've taken to info@tcsportline.com. Did I ever hear back? Nope. So apparently they don't give a ****, they're selling them and making money.
FWIW, I'm at 11" all around, with -2* of camber. Also, these arms weigh a little bit more than the stock arms.