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Oregonmon's white 1990 - now with more Porsche.

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297K views 3K replies 112 participants last post by  GreaseMonkey2000 
#1 · (Edited)
A place to keep track of progress, let's see if I have the discipline to catch up from 3 years ago.


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Up to date list of parts/mods. Damn, this took some time.

Current Build
March 2017


1990 B package

Engine/Exhaust
-2002 1.8 VVT engine, rebuilt August 2014, mild head shave 10.2:1 compression
-Engine dyno'd before supercharger 3/26/15 137hp and 121ft/lbs torque (near peak torque at 2400rpms)
-OBX header 94-97
-Enthuza 2.5” test pipe or Enthuza metal core cat
-Racing Beat non resonated mid-pipe
-Racing Beat Power Pulse muffler
-Rotrex C30-74 supercharger with 75mm pulley (dyno'd 234hp/184tq)
-ebay bar and plate intercooler with custom charge pipes
-Kraftwerks rotrex oil cooler and resevoir
-Turbosmart BOV
-K&N Intake
-Reverant built Megasquirt 3 Basic
-Mazda Competition motor mounts
-MS controlled VICS intake manifold from 99/00 Miata engine
-CX Racing aluminum radiator
-powdercoat black valve cover

Suspension/Chassis/Drivetrain
-Motion Control Suspension (MCS) single adjustable monotube dampers
-Eibach 2.25” springs 6” 700lbs/in front 7” 400lbs/in rear
-alignment numbers- front camber -3.1 rear, 2.7 degrees, toe -.08", caster 3.8'
-OEM NB top hats
-1994 power steering
-Superpro poly steering rack bushings
-Curly Shade Tree Garage aluminum steering rack spacers
-R package tie rod ends
-Racing Beat rear control arm brace
-Thompson Automotive front control arm brace
-4.3 Torsen swap with Energy Supension Poly differential mounts
-949 Racing 7.8 Aluminum 1.6 flywheel
-Supermiata 1.6 Hybrid Organic clutch
-Trackspeed Engineering stainless clutch line
-5 speed tranny

Wheels/Tires
-TRM C3M 15x9 +36 offset wheels
-225/45/15 BFG Rival S

Brakes
-Hawk HP+ pads street/autox and Cobalt XR3/5 track (1.6)
-Brembo rotors
-Stainless braided lines
-ATE DOT 4 fluid
-DIY brake booster brace
-Wilwood proportioning valve (to be installed)

Safety
-HardDog Hardcore M2 Rollbar
-Sonic Motors VS3 driver seat
-Sonic Motors P2 passenger seat
-PCI V1 seat mounts
-Schroth Profi 6pt. camlock harness (driver)
-NRG quick release
-Works Bell steering wheel hub
-Momo Monte Carlo steering wheel

Interior
-DIY door panels, faux suede, RS style door pulls
-Innovate wideband gauge
-LED bulbs
-Tablet connected to Megasquirt via bluetooth, running MSdroid
-Tablet also connected to audio amp via bluetooth for streaming music, google maps, etc..
-Kenwood 4 channel amp (hidden)
-Clarion 7 band EQ installed in glovebox
-Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5"/1" separate component speakers
-radio delete plate, switches for MS controlled lauch control, audio amplifier power
-delrin shift knob
-Billet pedals
-polished vent rings
-center console delete

Body/Cosmetics
-Snugtop hardtop
-Garage Vary rep front lip
-Front and rear tow hooks
-Garagestar black radiator panel
-Rspeed hood struts
-All turn signal, side marker and license plate bulbs to LED
-Osram Night Breaker in H4 headlight housings
-Rear bumper cut and bumper support delete
-APR carbon fiber mirrors and adapter plates
-antennae delete
-Rspeed side diffusers/skirts.
-Blackbird Fabworx adjustable lexan spoiler
 
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#30 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

ryan, are you implying that you want to simply raise the rack with the use of washers?
After doing some digging this is what I found out
"What I did was do two things. First I used the 1993 LE tie rod ends which have approx 3/16" more stud height which lowers the rod (in the USA the 93 LE was the lowest of all M1 Miata's from the factory and the factory supplied them with these special tie rod ends - part number 8AN2-32-280 and only available through Mazda Comp). I then machined 1/4" thick spacers for the steering rack to raise it back up (if you attempt to do this be very careful and know what you are doing as the width and hole size must be precise in order for the rack not to move or separate under load!). The idea is to get the steering rods as close to parallel with the control arms as possible."
this is assuming a ride height below 12 inches hub to fender.
 
#32 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

If you use washers, your rack bushing won't have anything to rest on. If you rack bushings don't have anything to rest on, it'll jiggle around. Don't have a jiggly rack, make a full sized spacer.

I'm guessing HD has a wide enough 1/4" aluminum bar stock we could use. I could just cut it to length, and drill two holes to match the subframe mounting holes. Let me know.
 
#33 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

ha, that's what I just finished telling him on fb chat.

Need to have that bushing tight.

For s13s you can get eccentric rack spacers that move the positioning of the rack (foward, for reduced ackerman change) -- almost seems like there's a need for some offset rack spacers to raise the rack for miatas.
 
#37 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

^LOL. :bouncin::bouncin::bouncin:

Late but productive night, this steering rack has been a pretty fun project really.

I got the rack mostly put back together, everything is greased but a few nuts including the adjust spring nut, which requires a in/lb torque wrench.

The hardest part was getting the new boots on. Holy **** they makes those things fit tight.

So to do list consists of
-torque nuts
-job weld the hard line ends closed that we're cut
-install R Package tie rod ends (delivery for Thursday)
- see if Curly fabs up some 1/4" aluminum spacers for under the U brackets to raise the rack up

When it comes time to putting it back in the car, I'm not sure how lining up the splines, steering wheel, basic alignment will go.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Here's a couple more of the pins press fitted into the pinion. You can actually see a pin in the very top of the splines. That is put in by the factory (Mazda) which then goes through the torsion spring that goes down into the pinion. So my buddy replicated that and pressed in 2 more pins 180 degrees opposite of each other where the 2 pieces are separate and twists causing the play in the steering. They took the whole thing apart, pretty funny. Way beyond my scope and I imagine not typically done due to the tools/equipment needed for this method.

 

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#40 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

So is it all done and driving? Or is that an old picture.
 
#42 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Super fab rack spacers made. R package ends come today. Hopefully going back together and on the ground today.
 

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#43 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Car is all back together and a lot of messing around with toe adjustment, removing steering wheel and hub adapter to different splines and so forth. I was running into the situation where left and right full lock were not equal.
Then what looked like fairly straight wheels in the air ended up being toed way out when put back on the ground. Let's justsay the first slow drive down the street, the wheel was a bit twitchy left and right. (Great turn in :))
Got it back up and adjusted the toe with the tie rods. Much closer and ready for alignment.
R package tie rods and rack spacers went on as well. You can see in the picture the tie rods are close to parallel with the ground at the current ride height.
Speaking of ride height, the car is sitting higher, especially in the rear. I guess the higher spring rates means less sag?
So I'll need to play with this before alignment.
Can't say much for driving impressions, cause uh I was in no shape to drive last night. My buddy Todd, who has autoxed my car and also the one who pinned the pinion gear, drove while I sat passenger. I think it's safe to say the steering is immediate and you have to pay attention on roads with crowns and undulations, but again the alignment is off now. First impression of steering effort is It's a little lighter, nothing like OMG, but i need to drive it today to get a better feel. I also have read that a lot of guys with depowered racks shoot for 3.5 caster numbers.
550/375 rates didn't feel harsh over the bumps might also be I have more travel with the extra ride height, maybe the m.netters are on to something.
2005 Porsche 997.1 garage mate.
 

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#44 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

New steering rack looks sharp with the new boots and rod end hardware.

Off topic: which HF floor jack is that? Looks larger than the 1.5. I need to get a bigger one to hoist up the M3 a little easier.

Off topic #2: you should create a photobucket or flickr account, host your photos there and then paste in with the correct code (IMG or BBC). Just my recommendation. : D
 
#45 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

New steering rack looks sharp with the new boots and rod end hardware.

Off topic: which HF floor jack is that? Looks larger than the 1.5. I need to get a bigger one to hoist up the M3 a little easier.

Off topic #2: you should create a photobucket or flickr account, host your photos there and then paste in with the correct code (IMG or BBC). Just my recommendation. : D
Thanks!

Jack is actually from Costco, like $140. It's very nice but a little big now for a moderately low Miata.

Yes the photo hosting is messed up.
 
#46 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Looks good ryan, what are your hub to fender measurements? and pinchweld to ground measurements?Are those superpro steering rack bushings?Did you end up reusing the stock hardware with the rack spacers or buy longer bolts?
 
#47 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Haven't measured it at the higher height. If I had to guess it's probably 12.5f 12.75r, possibly higher. Yes Super Pro rack bushings and the factory bolts are long enough with 1/4" aluminum spacers.
Anybody know what toe numbers you've been running?
 
#50 · (Edited)
Oregonmon's white 1990

Another fairly easy mod that Curly recommended and made a great difference in pedal feel. We looked at the brake booster while someone pressed on the brake pedal. There's no doubt, that whole assembly moves. So I used the bracket that my strut brace uses and drilled a hole and fitted bolt, washer, nut which butts right against the assembly. The pedal feels is quite a bit firmer, I mean it's really great. Whether the strut brace goes back on is up for debate.

I need to get a longer bolt so I can utilize the strength of both pieces.
 

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#51 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Save the weight and just keep the plate + brake brace. Those hinged tower braces move as the chassis moves.

Steve Dinan openly admitted that his hinged CF Dinan braces for strut BMWs are simply engine bay dress up. That's on a car that should actually see some benefit from a tower brace (our cars less so). Save for a fixed Carbing, Okuyama or Mazdaspeed 3 point if you must have the bling. Those are noticeable though marginally.
 
#52 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Yeah, although that thing ways nothing. If it really is just a dress up item, makes less sense because I think it looks better without it. I did throw the original brace bolt in its original hole to further connect the 2 pieces of the bracket.

Now, that ugly AFM needs to go.

Here's my numbers from my last alignment. Not bad camber numbers, I think I'll try about the same if not a little closer to 3.5 on the caster. And maybe 1/16th rear toe.
 

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#54 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Bring your whole brace over to me, two easy bolts and it'll come off.

I'll shave it down to minimum height, weld a piece of metal on top (to replace that bolt) so it won't flex in/out, weld a nut on so you don't have to have a bunch of funky hardware, and paint it flat black. You'll be the envy of the do it yourself brake master cylinder brace club.
 
#55 · (Edited)
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Thanks Josh for the offer.

Alignment is scheduled for Friday. It's driving great. The steering is so direct and I think it will invoke a lot of confidence at the limit of traction. I think about at track/autox and when I would be sawing a bit at the wheel on long sweepers and I now realize I was using steering input against the play in the rack. I should be able to really push it and keep it right on the knife edge so to speak. I lowered it some today so right now it's at 5" at the pinch welds, front and rear. Needs a little lower but I don't want to sacrifice rear travel.
Got the steering hub, QR, and steering wheel back on and it's tracking dead straight.
Although it does follow the cracks and crowns in the road. I think I notice it even more now because the play is gone. Sacrifices. .. We'll see how off the alignment on Friday.

Took it for a little spray off.
 

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#56 ·
Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Drove by America's Tire to get some free air check. Combination of winter and not checking pressures since last autox resulted in tire pressures at a anemic 22psi. Bumped up to 34ish, now this is the steering feel I was hoping for.
 

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