I wanted to make a thread for all the MSM owners on here to talk and chit chat about how cool we are because we own MSM's. But in all seriousness, anything and everything involving Mazdaspeed miata's is free reign. :slayer:
I've always had an aftermarket wheel in it, just never had a horn before. Anyways, I figured it out myself. I ended up using no stock wiring and ran all new wires into the relay provided and bolted it to the steering column under the plastic. Loud as **** and works like a champ
I have train horns in the mail right now. In other news, I just took a sanding pad to the skeleton of my Scoote 2 hood and grinded down above the Begi cold air box, and the hood fits a lot better. I still seem to have about 1/2 gap between the hood and bumper though. Could be shitty fitment, or the fact that I have no bumper support. I'm just hoping its either or, so I don't have to get my chassis straightened when I mount the widebody
also just cut in a new hole for my hood rod. Put it in the middle near the latch so my hood doesn't flex when I prop it open.
It was going to be this past friday, but AIM is now only a two man shop, and they had a Spec Miata come in that had been Spec Pinata'd, so that needed attention first.
Likely going to be this Friday.
Then i get to tear back into the MX6 and see if i can make 350whp with it before winter. :lol:
Question for you. I'm not a electrician so I don't know **** about wiring and lights and stuff. I know the hydra doesn't throw back codes so your CEL should always be off, but will that turn off the brake light and ABS light also?
Brake light should be functional still. It comes on when e-brake is up, and in terms of low brake fluid, that signal is sent directly to the cluster from the level monitoring thingy in your reservoir.
ABS light, i imagine should be the same. There's no reason for the ECU to see the ABS stuff, it's just brakes only, and there's actually a separate ECU of sorts that should be controlling that.
The only weirdness that i'm seeing with the Hydra in terms of lights is the security thing, because the immobilizer doesn't work with Hydra. The fix? Remove the light. :lol:
But yes, CEL should only be on when the car isn't running, but ignition is set to "on."
I just figure its because of the hydraulic ebrake and the hardlines having something to do with it. It's been on ever since I bought the car, but I've never had any problem with braking.
I'm not selling my duckbill anymore because now I don't have a chance to buy a fastback for cheap. I had to cancel the sale of my hardtop also. sigh
Unfortunately, i think i'll be going by there to pick up my ridiculously expensive wideband sensor that i paid rush shipping on, then putting the car in storage for winter in the next few days.
Sigh. The "joys" of having an EMS that only one person within 4-5 hours is familiar with.
Uh.... no, not going to go that far. It breaks traction. Pretty violently, at that. Couple huge horrible wheel hops, then sideways. (Why does this car wheel hop so much? It's fucking TERRIBLE.)
They're only 215/40-17 Parada Spec 2s. They're decently sticky i guess, but not real sure. I'm spoiled by having really only run RS2s, RS3s, and Star Specs on some of my other cars.
I think it's time for some upgraded mounts and probably a Beatrush rear triangle brace thingymabobber.
Car DOES have 72k miles on it, and it's 100% stock original suspension, mount, and bushing-wise.
Mine hops on the street pretty bad, but in smooth Autox situations, if i"m on the throttle hard enough it's silky smooth. Only have FM springs.
I'm seriously considering a stiff trans mount though. There's entirely too much play in the shifter when you do loose traction from the trans swaying back and forth.
I hate watching the shifter move back and forth when you accelerate and decelerate in gear in the first place. I'm pretty sure that's why 3rd gear is such a whore for me to try to hit when i'm beating on the car.
Yea, I have stiff mounts for my diff and motor. I'm thinking about taking off the NB2 brace and replacing it with a triangle brace for the diff. That way I can lower it and still have a little bit of stiffening left. lol
Is the rear dif brace FM and Racing Beat sell worth it? I was thinking about picking one up if it toned down the twitchyness of the rearend. I've got FM frame rails and was planning on picking up the butterfly brace soon too.
Is it really that bad, though? I have 98 duro in the Escort and the Celica, and the rattling seems to come from interior panels. I think a 70 in the MSM (being that it's built WAY better than the Escort, Celica has no interior panels), wouldn't be that bad?
And yes, early MSMs had fuel pump problems. But if you haven't had a problem yet, then you probably won't.
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