1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld

j-radvw · 08-20-2009, 01:29 PM

what should i do? i have a 91 1.6 with 190xxx on it i think the rear main seal is leeking. and needs rebuilt any ways, so its going to come out. how ever its my DD. i do have an extira 1.6 short noes that i can probly pun in it while its out, so what should i do rebuld it, 1.8 swap, low mile 1.6. dont have a lot of money starting collage in 5 days

what would it take to put in a vvt?

thank you

j-radvw · 08-20-2009, 03:33 PM

help?

08-20-2009, 05:54 PM

Easiest option may be to drop the tranny, pull clutch bits, and replace the seal. Cheaper than the other options and could be done in a weekend with a few tools.

Maikeru · 08-20-2009, 06:56 PM

Drop the trans, and replace seal. It should only take a day.

Jspade · 08-20-2009, 07:32 PM

If it is the rear main seal, i would do like the rest are saying and drop the tranny and clutch bits, and do all of that at the same time. If you have a good 1.6L, you could drop both the old motor and trans, seperate them, replace the clutch and all its goodies, then attatch the new 1.6L, and reinstall. We could do it at my shop in about a day.

j-radvw · 08-20-2009, 08:24 PM

if i dont replace this engine. i will replace all the seals i have a stage 1 racing clutch so that will stay. and i need new moter mounts and will probly do t-belt and water pump what elts should i do?

Jspade · 08-21-2009, 10:50 AM

that should be pretty much all you need. The biggest thing to think about is, if the rear main is leaking bad enough it can begin to soak into the clutch disc. But if you arent experiencing any clutch issues, you should be fine.

epikeddie · 08-21-2009, 03:36 PM

You're talking about a full re-seal job. You should also replace the following:

- Valve Cover Gasket
- CAS O-Ring
- Cam Seals (2 of them)
- Crank Seal
- Water pump gasket and O-ring (this will come with your new waterpump)
- Rear main seal (will need to remove transmission for this)

I don't think you'll need a rebuild and a 1.8L swap would only be suitable if you want to spend the money for a different motor and a bit of extra hp.

As long as your car isn't smoking everywhere (ala headgasket, piston ring failure, and etc), I don't think a rebuild would be necessary or even cost-effective. Unless you're planning to rebuild everything to a certain spec (ala Spec Miata series), it just doesn't make sense for rebuilds on Miatas - the motors are so cheap anyways.

I say....seals, timing belt, water pump, and gaskets.......and you're good for another 50-100k miles on that motor as long as your compression is still up to par (that reminds me.....go do a compression test to see if your motor is healthy).

Maikeru · 08-21-2009, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epikeddie

You're talking about a full re-seal job. You should also replace the following:

- Valve Cover Gasket
- CAS O-Ring
- Cam Seals (2 of them)
- Crank Seal
- Water pump gasket and O-ring (this will come with your new waterpump)
- Rear main seal (will need to remove transmission for this)

I say....seals, timing belt, water pump, and gaskets.......and you're good for another 50-100k miles on that motor as long as your compression is still up to par (that reminds me.....go do a compression test to see if your motor is healthy).

Not really all that cheap, but a good idea.

j-radvw · 08-22-2009, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epikeddie

You're talking about a full re-seal job. You should also replace the following:

- Valve Cover Gasket
- CAS O-Ring
- Cam Seals (2 of them)
- Crank Seal
- Water pump gasket and O-ring (this will come with your new waterpump)
- Rear main seal (will need to remove transmission for this)

I don't think you'll need a rebuild and a 1.8L swap would only be suitable if you want to spend the money for a different motor and a bit of extra hp.

As long as your car isn't smoking everywhere (ala headgasket, piston ring failure, and etc), I don't think a rebuild would be necessary or even cost-effective. Unless you're planning to rebuild everything to a certain spec (ala Spec Miata series), it just doesn't make sense for rebuilds on Miatas - the motors are so cheap anyways.

I say....seals, timing belt, water pump, and gaskets.......and you're good for another 50-100k miles on that motor as long as your compression is still up to par (that reminds me.....go do a compression test to see if your motor is healthy).

if i do keep my enging i plan to do this. where can get this stuff other than ebay. that wont kill my bank, and where can i get my compression tested?

Maikeru · 08-22-2009, 12:31 AM

Take it to a shop and get raped, OR go to Sears, buy a compression tester from Craftsman and do it yourself. It's like $60 or something.

Jspade · 08-22-2009, 10:25 AM

I have the ability to do all that stuff at my shop. For the compression test I will only charge you $20. If you want to do all the seals we would have to talk about price and stuff, but I can get all your seals and stuff at cost and pass that savings onto you so you don't have buy some crap ebay parts.

j-radvw · 08-22-2009, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jspade

I have the ability to do all that stuff at my shop. For the compression test I will only charge you $20. If you want to do all the seals we would have to talk about price and stuff, but I can get all your seals and stuff at cost and pass that savings onto you so you don't have buy some crap ebay parts.

i would love a gestament on what it would cost on laber. but the problem is im relly impatient when it comes to some one elts working on my car. im starting school tusday and betwen school and work. i will have no days off and its my DD. but at the same time when my car was an auto and i had the trany rebult. i said, i would never let anyone work on my car. i do trust you. at the sametime i wont to do it my self, let next week roll around, if youn can get a gestament on laber i most likely have you do it.

DPEXP · 08-22-2009, 03:38 PM

Your starting college?

nekky · 08-22-2009, 05:26 PM

a gestament?

Nev · 08-29-2009, 01:55 AM

laber?

Matt09 · 08-29-2009, 03:34 AM

relly?

kung fu jesus · 08-29-2009, 11:14 AM

the seals, timingbelt, waterpump, etc all all relatively cheap. i think timingbelt.com(?) has decent prices.

i think what you are going for is a reliability in the car because of school. it's a good idea.

the rear main isn't hard to do, it's just a lot of labor.

you would want to do this irregardless if it's your engine or a newer one.

something else i would strongly consider is to replace ALL the coolant hoses, including the little ones. THIS can be a *little* expensive as the tiny ones are dealer only, i think, but it will mean you really shouldn't have to worry about much else unless you are flogging the car.

with all this, you'll be flushing the coolant.

i would also recommend buying about 10 ft of tubing and replace all the vacuum hoses, maybe less if you don't have cruise control.

everything i mentioned is probably $300 or less if you shop the parts around online. this can all be done in a weekend or two with some help.

as for the compression, you might be able to rent a tester and do it yourself.

here's what you should consider for parts:
WP
WP seal
WP o-ring
idler pulley
tensioner pulley
2 cam seals
1 crank seal
timing belt
VC gasket
rear main seal
CAS seal

for coolant:
upper main radiator hose
lower main radiator hose
both ACV hoses (the ones that goto the top of the intake manifold)
both IAC hoses (these reqiure removing the throttle body to get at, but when they split, they will bleed a LOT of coolant in a hurry)
new thermostat
thermostat housing seals
10 ft (give or take) of rubber vacuum hose
TB gasket
coolant
radiator cap

things to consider:
spark plugs
spark plug wires
PVC valve
fuel filter
flush clutch master
flush brakes

afc2112 · 08-30-2009, 06:01 PM

Take out all the oil & don't refill. That should stop the leaking.

In all seriousness, listen to the replies above.

08-20-2009, 01:29 PM	#1 (permalink)
j-radvw Supporting Member #5522 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: patriot, Indiana Posts: 2,698	1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld what should i do? i have a 91 1.6 with 190xxx on it i think the rear main seal is leeking. and needs rebuilt any ways, so its going to come out. how ever its my DD. i do have an extira 1.6 short noes that i can probly pun in it while its out, so what should i do rebuld it, 1.8 swap, low mile 1.6. dont have a lot of money starting collage in 5 days what would it take to put in a vvt? thank you
	__________________ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2947970 Build thread http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/89-roadster-projects/39675-millennium-jade-build-thread-if-you-want-call.html The Anti-Style Bar Empire - Saving lives since 2010

08-20-2009, 03:33 PM	#2 (permalink)
j-radvw Supporting Member #5522 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: patriot, Indiana Posts: 2,698	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld help?
	__________________ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2947970 Build thread http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=39675 The Anti-Style Bar Empire - Saving lives since 2010

08-20-2009, 05:54 PM	#3 (permalink)
Zel Guest Posts: n/a	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld Easiest option may be to drop the tranny, pull clutch bits, and replace the seal. Cheaper than the other options and could be done in a weekend with a few tools.
Zel Guest Posts: n/a

08-20-2009, 06:56 PM	#4 (permalink)
Maikeru Supporting Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 2,087	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld Drop the trans, and replace seal. It should only take a day.

08-20-2009, 07:32 PM	#5 (permalink)
Jspade Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 770	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld If it is the rear main seal, i would do like the rest are saying and drop the tranny and clutch bits, and do all of that at the same time. If you have a good 1.6L, you could drop both the old motor and trans, seperate them, replace the clutch and all its goodies, then attatch the new 1.6L, and reinstall. We could do it at my shop in about a day.

08-20-2009, 08:24 PM	#6 (permalink)
j-radvw Supporting Member #5522 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: patriot, Indiana Posts: 2,698	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld if i dont replace this engine. i will replace all the seals i have a stage 1 racing clutch so that will stay. and i need new moter mounts and will probly do t-belt and water pump what elts should i do?
	__________________ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2947970 Build thread http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=39675 The Anti-Style Bar Empire - Saving lives since 2010

08-21-2009, 10:50 AM	#7 (permalink)
Jspade Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 770	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld that should be pretty much all you need. The biggest thing to think about is, if the rear main is leaking bad enough it can begin to soak into the clutch disc. But if you arent experiencing any clutch issues, you should be fine.

08-21-2009, 03:36 PM	#8 (permalink)
epikeddie Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 875	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld You're talking about a full re-seal job. You should also replace the following: - Valve Cover Gasket - CAS O-Ring - Cam Seals (2 of them) - Crank Seal - Water pump gasket and O-ring (this will come with your new waterpump) - Rear main seal (will need to remove transmission for this) I don't think you'll need a rebuild and a 1.8L swap would only be suitable if you want to spend the money for a different motor and a bit of extra hp. As long as your car isn't smoking everywhere (ala headgasket, piston ring failure, and etc), I don't think a rebuild would be necessary or even cost-effective. Unless you're planning to rebuild everything to a certain spec (ala Spec Miata series), it just doesn't make sense for rebuilds on Miatas - the motors are so cheap anyways. I say....seals, timing belt, water pump, and gaskets.......and you're good for another 50-100k miles on that motor as long as your compression is still up to par (that reminds me.....go do a compression test to see if your motor is healthy).
epikeddie Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 875	__________________ 1993 Miata (NA6CE): Integral Stage 2 cams, MSPNP9093, Bride VIOS III, H&R Race springs, Tokico shocks, Konig Rewinds, Header, Midd-Tenn Headlights, Mazdaspeed Test Pipe, Back to stock exhaust

08-22-2009, 12:31 AM	#11 (permalink)
Maikeru Supporting Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 2,087	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld Take it to a shop and get raped, OR go to Sears, buy a compression tester from Craftsman and do it yourself. It's like $60 or something.

08-22-2009, 10:25 AM	#12 (permalink)
Jspade Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 770	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld I have the ability to do all that stuff at my shop. For the compression test I will only charge you $20. If you want to do all the seals we would have to talk about price and stuff, but I can get all your seals and stuff at cost and pass that savings onto you so you don't have buy some crap ebay parts.

08-22-2009, 03:38 PM	#14 (permalink)
DPEXP CR.net Supporter Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: so fla Posts: 336	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld Your starting college?

08-22-2009, 05:26 PM	#15 (permalink)
nekky Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 479	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld a gestament?
nekky Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 479

08-29-2009, 11:14 AM	#18 (permalink)
kung fu jesus Ninja Messiah Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: RDU, NC Posts: 5,894	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld the seals, timingbelt, waterpump, etc all all relatively cheap. i think timingbelt.com(?) has decent prices. i think what you are going for is a reliability in the car because of school. it's a good idea. the rear main isn't hard to do, it's just a lot of labor. you would want to do this irregardless if it's your engine or a newer one. something else i would strongly consider is to replace ALL the coolant hoses, including the little ones. THIS can be a little expensive as the tiny ones are dealer only, i think, but it will mean you really shouldn't have to worry about much else unless you are flogging the car. with all this, you'll be flushing the coolant. i would also recommend buying about 10 ft of tubing and replace all the vacuum hoses, maybe less if you don't have cruise control. everything i mentioned is probably $300 or less if you shop the parts around online. this can all be done in a weekend or two with some help. as for the compression, you might be able to rent a tester and do it yourself. here's what you should consider for parts: WP WP seal WP o-ring idler pulley tensioner pulley 2 cam seals 1 crank seal timing belt VC gasket rear main seal CAS seal for coolant: upper main radiator hose lower main radiator hose both ACV hoses (the ones that goto the top of the intake manifold) both IAC hoses (these reqiure removing the throttle body to get at, but when they split, they will bleed a LOT of coolant in a hurry) new thermostat thermostat housing seals 10 ft (give or take) of rubber vacuum hose TB gasket coolant radiator cap things to consider: spark plugs spark plug wires PVC valve fuel filter flush clutch master flush brakes
	__________________ I ♣ baby seals.

08-30-2009, 06:01 PM	#19 (permalink)
afc2112 Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: St. Pete, FL Posts: 996	Re: 1.6 oil leak what should i do? 1.8? rebuld Take out all the oil & don't refill. That should stop the leaking. In all seriousness, listen to the replies above.

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