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Full-detailed tuck/delete write-ups for NA's!

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451K views 1.2K replies 243 participants last post by  PooFinger  
#1 · (Edited)
I'm wanting to see if there is any interest on extremely detailed wire tuck and delete 'mods'. I'd be doing this on my free time since working on cars is really my only hobby along with physics. These write-ups would include descriptions of exactly how parts and systems operate relevant to the write up (personally written by myself) so, that way the reader has a more comprehensional understanding of what they're working on and how they're affecting their car's original state. Along with the description, there will be diagrams if necessary to further introduce and explain systems and parts to aid to a visualization of how the systems and parts operate. In my write-up's, I will be guiding you on the how-to's as if you were a 16 year old kid with his first car.--They'll be write-up's for NA dummies.

Just lmk if you're interested. If there's enough interest I'll definitely look into doing these write-up's now and then and leave them in my sig for cr.net members to use.

THX. GB. :p
 
M
#995 ·
well i did my tuck with my old engine, im in the mists of a decent n/a build... just for now til the internals and big $$ parts are bought and arrive. i got the fuse block inside under the dash, the emission sols inside the fender, the egr pressure thing is just hidden with a vaccum line routed to it. i have yet to play with the egr, and yes im obd2. so far i got the write up off alldata on how to check the operation of the egr. so that'll be next, if i can figure out the electrical inputs and outputs, then it should be easy.

i pulled the entire power harness, engine harness, air bag/ blower box etc. out, re routed, lengthened without cutting... taped back up and grommeted all the new holes. all in around 12 hours on my daliy... lets just say my hands really are hating life atm. ouch

I am having no luck with ebay on any grommet/plug over 2". can anyone help lead me to something that'll work? (i cant weld in plates. dont have time to repaint correctly or remove the inside stuff so i wont have the chance of fire
 
#998 ·
IMO I didn't want any component in my fenders. Reason being I am not sure if water will ever get in there since I live in Washington and the thing will see rain.

I have to extend a lot of my engine wires and a few other things since I re routed everything inside.

You might be able to use the old grommets as a base.
 
#996 ·
You could get an ABS plumbing fixture and add a cap to it. 2", 2.5" and 3" may be available. If that isn't suitable, you can get blanking plates for aircraft instrument panels that fit standard 3" instruments. If you don't want to weld, high-temp epoxy is always a good (and sometimes better) choice or you could drill for screws.
 
#999 ·
Check your local lowes for rubber grommets. Mine had some 1.5" ones and some smaller ones as well. I wouldn't worry about water getting into the harness if you did it right everything should be water tight. Only issue I would see is if your slammed you might rub a wire if it hangs to low.

Im in the middle of shaving my bay and relocating the wiper motor right now so far so good just need to get some longer bolts to mount it inside the wiper cowl
 
#1,005 ·
As for the bondo cracking it is what it is. I didn't put alot of it on at 1 time just small thin layers and it was basically to cover the welds made to fill the holes. I also added fiber glass to the under side. If anything ill just install my shock tower brace/bar to hold the front together.
 
#1,008 ·
Did you not weld the holes shut? anything bigger than roughly a dime will break man. You hit any major bump on a tire that shock goes straight into your shock towers and fender well. Even with a shock tower brace the displacement from any significant bump will crack that.

I just hope you don't plan to DD that thing with them braces gone for the fender wells. =/

I understand you did it in layers, but your only allowed like literally 1/8th an inch before it may crack on a place of high stress such as that. I was highly skeptical about even placing as much as I did on my welded holes. I would HATE for that **** to lift and ruin my pain job in the bay.

I wish you the best of luck.

Venice said:
Check your local lowes for rubber grommets. Mine had some 1.5" ones and some smaller ones as well. I wouldn't worry about water getting into the harness if you did it right everything should be water tight. Only issue I would see is if your slammed you might rub a wire if it hangs to low.

Im in the middle of shaving my bay and relocating the wiper motor right now so far so good just need to get some longer bolts to mount it inside the wiper cowl
Click to expand...
You do know water runs off your windshield into your fender wells right? Anything you put in those fender wells has a chance to get wet. Im also assuming you still have your fender liners.. w/o those everything in there EATS water and dirt and will cause corrosion faster than ****.

All my wiring is loomed and any solder splice I caked on di-electric grease and used special heat shrink with glue inside of it. Even then I am worried they may corrode. You couldn't PAY me to crimp two wires together inside my fenders.

But to each there own man, hopefully what ever you put in your fenders doesn't cause problems later on. EG. Why I relocated everything inside my **** pit.

Most of mine mounts around my heater core. The Vacuum Tester is on the Wall along with EGR. I also pulled my diagnostic box inside and all the relays. I just don't feel safe having that exposed to weather.
 
#1,014 ·
What link everything is in this thread and if you read all 34 pages you will find links to stuff that helps .


On the other hand for the people looking for a radiator that will fit into the radiator support . I've found that the older Toyota Mr2 rad fits and has the fittings on the right sides . You will have to make some mounts (i'm in the process of doing this now ) .
 
#1,024 ·
Here is where I'm at with the tuck. Replaced my plugs, wires, checked over all my hoses, and sanded all the grounds. The car is throwing CEL #26 so I pulled, lubed, and tested the solenoid valve. Which is apparently what the CEL code is related to.

Still doing the same thing, I've been burning through gas like crazy it's running so rich. I would assume it's running rich because the CEL defaulted it to a safeguard like map.

So tonight I guess I'm going to take a volt meter and do a voltage test. Print out a pin out and go directly to the ECU. One thing I have noticed is the fuel pump does not prime when the key is first turned to accessory mode. After the first time it stalls, the fuel pump then begins priming. (Which is why it is probably stalling first start) After checking the pin out, I think my only other options are to check fuel pressure to my injectors.

Here are some pictures- I also found the connector listed in the second picture just hanging out under my dash, I'm not sure if it's relative or not.

Image


Image


So said connector


Image


Edit: It does still sound like it is misfiring
 
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