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| DIY and How-To Writeups Nothing beats home-made |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Paul MN
Posts: 458
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So, a hood I have fell over on my wifes Acura a while ago. She was pleased.
In order to maintain domestic tranquility, I decided to fix it by wet sanding the clear coat. First, the supplies: (not required, just what I had) 1500 wet dry sandpaper 2000 wet/dry sandpaper Foam Wet sanding blocks "Dobie" teflon-safe pan cleaning sponge 3M heavy-duty rubbing compound 3M perfect-it 2 rubbing compound Pinnacle Fine Swirl Remover Orange Lake buffer pad White Lake buffer pad Porter-Cable Buffer First I washed the whole car, and clayed the fender where the damage was. Here are pictures of the scratches. ![]() ![]() ![]() The hood fell, and kinda slid down the front of the car. Stupid wind. To wetsand, you NEED to used some sort of soft sanding block, and not your fingers. If you use your fingers, it will cause un-even pressure, and make low spots in the paint. Worse case, you will burn through the clear coat right into the paint. To prep the sandpaper, put it in a bucket of water, with a couple drops of car wash in it. Let the paper soak for 15 minutes or so. This is also the water you will be using to lubricate the sandpaper with, so make sure the bucket is clean. You don't want to drag a chunk of sand or grit aross the paint while you are sanding. Once the paper is ready, wrap it around the sanding block. I wound up using the "dobie" pan thing, because I felt like the foam blocks were a bit too firm for my liking. I'm sure there are other foam blocks out there in different hardnesses, but I could not find any. The sponge worked perfectly. ![]() ![]() I started with the 1500 grit, and with JUST THE WIGHT OF MY HAND, started to work the paint. I slopped plenty of water on the fender, then I started sanding slowly in straight lines, but quickly switched to alternating 45 degree angles. I would work up one way, switch angles, and work back down. I stopped, and dried the panel off every 2-3 minutes to see how even my sanding was, and to check progress. KEEP THE PAINT SOAKED AT ALL TIMES. The water acts as a lubricant, and a "cleaner" for the sandpaper. This is where it pays to be VERY patient. If you screw this part up, your paint will be damaged. All we are doing is working with the clear coat. I wound up doing most of the top of the fender and feathering out near the edges, so the "repair" would not be so obvious. Here is what it looked like after a few cycles of 1500 grit: ![]() ![]() Then a few cycles of 2000 grit: ![]() Looks great, eh? At this point I was wondering what the hell I was thinking trying this DIY. Then I hit it with the "heavy-duty" rubbing compound, and the white Lake buffing pad, speed 3 on the PC buffer: ![]() After I got done with this, I was expecting a bit more shine. Pants-shitting over ruined paint almost commenced. Next step was the "perfect it 2" compund, and the orange Lake pad, speed 4 on the PC buffer: ![]() Ok, looking a bit better now. I was scared there for a bit. Then the Pinnacle fine swirl remover: ![]() Much better! Then I washed and dried the panel again, just to get rid of all the dust and crap, and let it dry for a bit. After that came the Klasse AIO polish, and Klasse Sealer glaze: ![]() Finished product: ![]() ![]() ![]() Now that's the best looking fender on the front of the car. It's going to drive me nuts. |
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Last edited by Palmer; 03-22-2010 at 10:40 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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d[-_-]b 56-783
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fontana, SurCalifas
Posts: 1,451
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great write up man. i may need this soon
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Paul MN
Posts: 458
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A couple things to add:
My paint was scuffed, not scratched. This is NOT going to work on damage that has real depth, like a scratch. Also, the heavy duty rubbing compound is like a 3000 grit sandpaper, so try that first. You will need a couple finer grades of polish to bring it back, but it still will remove less clear than wet sanding. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 283
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That looks great!
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] MS-T28-18psi l RC440's l Custom IM l Walbro 190 l Tial 38mm WG l AEM Uego WB l AEM Tru Boost l Koni Yellows l H&R Springs l Custom Top Hats l 15x9 6UL l Toyo R1R - 225/45 l Tuckin99 N2
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Paul MN
Posts: 458
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Quote:
Haha, The one that fell on the car? Well, it was a junkyard hood that I fake rusted out, and stuck on my saab to make fun of VW kids at a car show. I cut it into chunks, and put it in my trash after the show. So, it's doing fine. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: St.Louis
Posts: 3,128
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very nice... This is what i do on a daily basis now. just recently got a job detailing/wet sanding/buffing cars at a local body shop.
Love the job/ and the place. I am still learning some things but i am glad i got this job |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 12,191
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Thanks for the writeup. I've never gotten past the 2000 grit pants-shitting over ruined paint stage of the process. Now I know to keep going until it shines like new. I spray bombed some parts on my motorcycle about a month ago so the paint should be hard enough now to tackle this process.
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#18 (permalink) | ||
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Paul MN
Posts: 458
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Quote:
I'm going to go ahead and disagree with you. I do a fair amount of work like this, and it was beyond that point. FYI, the rest of the paint looks great. Pretty much what you would expect on a car that was north of 45k when new. Quote:
Nice, post pictures! Remember to use a pad for the sand paper, espcially on all the curved surfaces. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Thousand Oaks, California
Posts: 3,822
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How does it look a month later?
Is it still shiny on this area or will require a bit more often polishing? |
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__________________
Chris Autokonexion Kevlar bumper and fenders 2096lbs FM 2.0L Stroker+GT2560+V-mount+1000cc ID+E85+22psi->335 whp Ford Motorsport Tremec T5z 5 speed transmission 275 Hoosier Koni 3011 coilovers 900 Lbs/inch springs - Daily Driver
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#20 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Paul MN
Posts: 458
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Looks just fine.
The clear coat is still there, it's just a tiny bit thinner. I followed the wetsanding with some pretty nice product, so it looks just like the rest of the car, and has held up just fine. |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cleveland, OH / Miami, FL
Posts: 371
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A nice little trick to use is wrapping the sand paper around a paint stick. The stick (also soak it in water) stays flat but curves with the body panel letting you have more area to cover and a more even sand.
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__________________
90 Miata - a work in progres / 78 Electra - low rider / 84 T-Type - speedy / 05 Corolla - DD gas saver / 85 Riv - factory convertible,caddy white,sunday car / 82 Malibu - blue bomber |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cleveland, OH / Miami, FL
Posts: 371
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__________________
90 Miata - a work in progres / 78 Electra - low rider / 84 T-Type - speedy / 05 Corolla - DD gas saver / 85 Riv - factory convertible,caddy white,sunday car / 82 Malibu - blue bomber |
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