![]() |
|
|
|
|||||||
| DIY and How-To Writeups Nothing beats home-made |
![]() |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: greensboro, nc
Posts: 390
|
Hey I figured I would share how I made my own oil catch can with some detailed instructions. I know there are plenty available on Ebay for $20, and quality ones like cusco, mishimoto, and nrg, but this could be something for you guys on a budget, or if you simply do not want to wait on shipping I guess. so here we go:
you will need the following items: -a car, preferably a miata -ptfe thread seal tape (that thin flimsy white tape) - two 3/8inch hose barbs with 1/4inch male hose end - a 3/8inch fuel line T or Y (preferably the brass, or gold metal looking kind) - 3/8 inch insulated heat resistant hose, transmission line I believe is what they call it at autozone, advanced, oreilys - a breather filter of sorts, found also at local auto store - something to block off the vacuum port on the intake manifold that line the pvc runs to. I used a 3/8inch vacuum cap. - an air compressor water/air separator, also called a pneumatic air filter. (I used one that was a 1/4inch air filter) - clamps I found majority of these items at harbor freight tools, the air/water separator, the two hose barb fittings, clamps, tape, and the rest can be found there or at local auto stores. If you have trouble finding some of the fittings they can also be located at plumbing specialty stores as well, however that may be a little more in price I didn't check. Here is a pic of items you will need: ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 now first thing, wrap your white tape around the threads of the hose barb fittings like so: ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 and the second one: ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 take apart the bowl, or "catch can" from the water/air separator and attach fittings: ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 you see that little arrow? that is where you want your hose line to feed into (the hose fitting will screw in a tad further on this side also). the air filter goes on the other side with no arrow: ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 next take out the filter inside the bowl. Also you will want to take off that little spring loaded part on the bottom of the bowl and block it off. I was able to find a screw and nut combo that fit nicely into the threaded port that came with the bowl. now reattach the bowl, to the top, be sure to put the O ring back into place as to seal it: It should now look like this: ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 next you attach the T or Y fitting to something lower than the valve cover but higher than the catch can. YOU WANT A DOWNWARD FLOW OF OIL, so it will work most effectively. I attached it to the fuse box bracket that contains the headlights, and main fuse (pink fuse, and 80 black fuse) ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 then measure lines cut them, and attach to either side of valve cover. be sure to block that intake port! ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-26 next attach the catch can, I attached mine on the back side of the fuse box, below the T good room, and the breather will have fresher air I suppose. ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 apologies for the bright flash, I was doing this in the evening, it's pretty hot and humid here during the day. Now there you go a catch can for $20 or so that is functional and you did it yourself. Also yes I know my engine bay is dirty, i'm in the process of cleaning everything up as we speak, nasty valve cover leak. Picked up some cleaner and brushes so i'll be busy this weekend Now here's a cool pic from a meet on saturday, I'm not in the pic, those two dudes were takings pics of the cars lol. ![]() By xander071584 at 2012-06-25 |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement | |||
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 298
|
Excwllwnt idea to use a readily available separator from a compressor. Hopefully the clear plastic can withstand engine bay heat. You might consider plumbing the drain on the separator back to the crankcase - it is no more contaminated than any other oil in the system.
I am having a problem following the plumbing here. The air-oil separator is needed in series with the PCV valve. There should be no need for the small air cleaner you have in the system. In my '01, the air inlet to the cam cover comes from metered air in the crossover tube so that any air going into the intake manifold is metered. If you use external air, the engine will run lean because the air meter never sees it and never boosts the fuel quantity to compensate for the additional air. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 493
|
Plastic on those hold up fine, they separate the oil really well, but honestly if you're not running it to vac you might as well just run the filter open. If you do run it to vac, check it often, when they get to the level of the bronze filter piece you'll get a shit ton of misfires and suck tons of oil into the intake.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|