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Old 09-14-2014, 10:58 AM   #151 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Where'd you get the tire rack? $60 sounds like a good deal.
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Old 09-14-2014, 11:17 AM   #152 (permalink)
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Where'd you get the tire rack? $60 sounds like a good deal.
Agreed. Do tell!
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Old 09-14-2014, 11:30 AM   #153 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990 (NOW WITH VVT SWAP)

Sorry, wrong about the price. It was $45.
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Old 09-14-2014, 11:41 AM   #154 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

You should probably post a link that works.

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Old 09-14-2014, 11:49 AM   #155 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990 (NOW WITH VVT SWAP)

That's some shit right there. When I first put up that link it was 44.99. Now it's 49.99.
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:16 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

The power of eCommerce! Amazon knows youre sharing.
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Old 09-15-2014, 07:10 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Getting alignment tomorrow, preparing for NASA northwest on Sunday at PIR. I am also borrowing a fender roller from El Greigo (thanks!) for the front. It hasn't been a problem on the street but the track will probably be a different story. Anyone have RS3 V2 225/45/15 tire pressure recommendations?

I received tracking info on the MS3 from Reverant and that is one of the big pieces of the puzzle for the swap. Should be here this week. Still need air intake and flywheel.
Lucy, our Boston Terrier mix, sunbathing.
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:33 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990 (NOW WITH VVT SWAP)

This fucking app sucks. Update erased cause I waited too long to send.
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:58 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Absolutely love where this build has gone! It's very similar to mine except you have much nicer suspension.

As far as pressures go, I tend to run mine about 31psi hot on track. I've tried going as high as 34 and 35 like some other tires requires and they just don't feel right. I haven't done any testing with a pyrometer so my experience is strictly based on how the car felt drving on track.
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:05 PM   #160 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990 (NOW WITH VVT SWAP)

Alignment.


Didn't get the camber I was hoping, possibly going a bit lower would help.
2.75f/2.25r, 1/16th rear toe, 3.85 caster.
Pulled some airbag sensors (heavy), wiring and fender liner out. Couple pounds easy.

Hot Wheels score, 993 GT2 with flat white paint and Edit: 1970 Toyota Celica, so JDM it hurts . Score!


Thanks SFL!!
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Old 09-17-2014, 12:31 AM   #161 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Is your rear camber maxed? Also the rs3s like to be between 30-33 hot.
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Old 09-17-2014, 01:18 AM   #162 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990 (NOW WITH VVT SWAP)

No where near maxed in the rear. He had them at 3.5 after I told them to get as much negative camber as possible. I didn't think that would be ideal so I told him to go. 5 degree less than front.
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:29 AM   #163 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Ahhhh, I'd add a little back in. How do your eccentric bolts look? All in good shape? What's your pinchweld height?
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Old 09-17-2014, 11:40 AM   #164 (permalink)
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Pinch weld are around 4 5/8"f and 4 3/4"r. I didn't really know what you were asking regarding the bolts so a quick search around and found this on 949's site. Under these guidelines mine are done.

"Get rid of that clunk!
Mazda improved the bolt and washer design for the NB which supercedes the NA bolt design. These are the latest fine thread, double notch version. Factory torque spec is 69-83 ft/lbs.
If you have had any recent suspension work and picked up a single loud clunk under hard braking or turning, chances are your alignment bolts are worn out. Another clear symptom of slipping eccentrics is having your steering wheel centered when driving straight then being un-centered or shifting orienation after turning one way, then shifting back when you turn the other way. That is your camber (and toe) changing on one front wheel only from slipped alignment eccentrics. While active alignment sounds cool, it's not really.
Notes for competition use (does not apply to street only cars)
For any R compound or EHP (RS3, Start Spec, Rival) used on track or autocross, these bolts in the forward location on the front control arm (camber) are consumables. Under such usage the bolts must be over-torqued to keep from slipping and as a result, begin to yield (stretch) after a a few alignments. The other positions can be kept just over factory torque specs. The forward front control arm bolts need to be torqued ah, a lot. How much exactly, is up to you. We have a few special 20" long 17mm box end wrenches we hang off off. That ends up being considerably more than OEM specs. We will not publish, nor quote our spec because lawyer.
We keep a few spares in our box when we go to the track. If you find yours slip and need to be tightened more than once in between alignments, they're done." -949 Racing

Josh was probably right about the RB brace being the cause (not diff mounts like guessed) of the creaking sound. 2 of the 4 mounts points of the brace are at the rear eccentric bolts and it did appear it was moving. They're torqued back down now and no creak.
Bigger and fresh VS3s are only going to make it worse according to 949. I wish I knew about this before I did alignment, thanks Martin for the advice.
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Old 09-17-2014, 12:54 PM   #165 (permalink)
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Yeah, they are a wear item, Ive had to replace the ones on laz, the faster you go the more wear and tear happens on stuff like that.
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Old 09-17-2014, 12:58 PM   #166 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

I remember getting an alignment at AR a while back. Eddie recommended the updated eccentric bolts before spending money on squaring things up. But I'm sure Midas offered similar advice.


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Old 09-17-2014, 01:28 PM   #167 (permalink)
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well that didnt take long yeah, I cant say how many times over the course of the summer that Ive had to swap out eccentrics on miatas we have aligned, anywhere from street cruises to serious business track/autox cars. and we stock them for this reason. regardless car should be good, I would strongly recommend lowering the front just a hair more and replacing the bolts and then realigning it when funding allows, I think we can get you to 3 degrees or damn close. And Id go with at least 2.5 in the rear if not more, Im running 3 degrees all around and it is awesome
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Old 09-17-2014, 02:07 PM   #168 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

What's your height again compared to mine?
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Old 09-17-2014, 02:37 PM   #169 (permalink)
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Im at 4.25 and 4.5 respectively
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Old 09-17-2014, 02:39 PM   #170 (permalink)
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quick chime in / question here since there is a ton of good info on allignment. I recenlty replaced all of my bolts with the new NB ones, as well as new tie rods/ ends and took it to get alligned with 949 specs and expected to get an amazing feeling car back. to my surpirse they were able to get the camber spot on on one side but not on the other. Toe is 0 front and back and caster around 4*. Camber looked something like this. 3* FR 2.1* FL 2.6* RR 2.1* LR. Now I susepect the allignment shop i took it to are very old school and hate dealing with (lowered cars) did not want to put in the extra time to really dial it in. My question is this. The car is very loose feeling at high speeds. highway going 70+ the front end is very floaty and i dont like it. I prefer a heavier feeling and quicker repsonse. With you guys having close specs in camber, is this just the downsides to having - camber? should i have some toe? or is my camber not matching causing this you think?
By the way, i havent seen this thread in a bit and holy smokes am I jealous of your recent purchases. You have the two things next on my list. A fresh NB motor to throw in and mcs/xidia. Well done dude. Cant wait to see your impressions of the motor when it goes in.
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Old 09-17-2014, 04:11 PM   #171 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

How much do you guys sell the eccentrics for Martin? Please PM ME WITH BEST FORUM PRICING
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Old 09-17-2014, 04:40 PM   #172 (permalink)
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Joeyz31

What are your toe settings at, make sure everything is tight and hasnt slipped. The more caster you have the more the car will want to self center after you turn the wheel. It could also be that one of your control arms is bent which is why you cant match the front camber. Lots of possibilities to explore. Id start with ensuring everything is tight and then go from there. I know this isnt likely it but in the infancy of Laz's build we discovered that one of the steering rack brackets that bolts it to the front subframe was loose, leading to a very nerve wracking steering feel.

As for as Ryan's new bits, the VVT motor should be excellent, it was originally destined for laz, and the MCS coilovers are an amazing setup that he should be able to enjoy for years to come.
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Old 09-17-2014, 05:01 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Joeyz31

What are your toe settings at, make sure everything is tight and hasnt slipped. The more caster you have the more the car will want to self center after you turn the wheel. It could also be that one of your control arms is bent which is why you cant match the front camber. Lots of possibilities to explore. Id start with ensuring everything is tight and then go from there. I know this isnt likely it but in the infancy of Laz's build we discovered that one of the steering rack brackets that bolts it to the front subframe was loose, leading to a very nerve wracking steering feel.

As for as Ryan's new bits, the VVT motor should be excellent, it was originally destined for laz, and the MCS coilovers are an amazing setup that he should be able to enjoy for years to come.
So my toe is set to 0. My thought was also a bent control arm. Would not suprise me given some of the pot wholes around here. My other thought was my poly bushings not moving since they haven't been greased in 2 years. Didn't do zerkz. I emailed isc about delrin bushings for next spring so that will eliminate that issue because I will probably replacing all of the control arms at that time. As far as everything being tight, I will double cc heck everything this weekend. I also installed super pro rack bushings before the alligbment so I am not questioning those bolts but maybe some others. Thanks for the input.
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Old 09-18-2014, 12:21 PM   #174 (permalink)
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^BEST Tumblr page. 8)
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Old 09-18-2014, 01:56 PM   #175 (permalink)
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How much do you guys sell the eccentrics for Martin? Please PM ME WITH BEST FORUM PRICING
All PM's replied. Shipping today!
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:20 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990 (NOW WITH VVT SWAP)

Some might say polishing your paint right before a track day is futile. I say baaahhh. Plus look at this single stage white paint from 1990. The brake dust will fly right off.

Trying some Griots Machine Polish no. 2, followed by Chemical Guys fine swirl remover, and final glaze. Using a Porter Cable DA polisher.
Pics!


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Old 09-18-2014, 06:31 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Mmmm... shiny.
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:27 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Can't wait to see the look on your face when you gaze at my greasy hand prints all over the fenders when we do the engine swap. Much lol.
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:41 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Can't wait to see the look on your face when you gaze at my greasy hand prints all over the fenders when we do the engine swap. Much lol.
Yup. I know those greasy hand prints all too well. Though mine are usually on the doors... from reaching up to pull myself out from under the car.

That being said. I'm envious. I've yet to break out paint correction tools on my Miata.
Kudos to you sir, kudos to you.
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:46 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Josh, it shall be draped with the finest of linen. Every hour we will take a wax break so I may remove any residue.

Are you kidding? Let's get that bitch in there and do launch control!!
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