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Old 01-27-2014, 02:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Oregonmon's white 1990 Fast & Furious build

A place to keep track of progress, let's see if I have the discipline to catch up from 3 years ago.


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Up to date list of parts/mods. Damn, this took some time.

Current Build
October 2016


1990 B package

Engine/Exhaust
-2002 1.8 VVT engine, rebuilt August 2014, mild head shave 10.5:1 compression
-Dyno tuned 3/26/15 137hp and 121ft/lbs torque (near peak torque at 2400rpms)
-OBX header 94-97
-Enthuza 2.5” test pipe or Enthuza metal core cat
-Racing Beat non resonated mid-pipe
-Racing Beat Power Pulse muffler
-Rotrex C30-74 supercharger with 75mm pulley
-ebay bar and plate intercooler with custom charge pipes
-Kraftwerks rotrex oil cooler and resevoir
-Turbosmart BOV
-K&N Intake
-Reverant built Megasquirt 3 Basic
-Mazda Competition motor mounts
-MS controlled VICS intake manifold from 99/00 Miata engine
-CX Racing aluminum radiator
-powdercoat black valve cover

Suspension/Chassis/Drivetrain
-Motion Control Suspension (MCS) single adjustable monotube dampers
-Eibach 2.25” springs 6” 700lbs/in front 7” 400lbs/in rear
-alignment numbers- front camber -2.9"/2.8" degrees, rear camber 2.3"/2.2" degrees, toe -.06", caster 3.8'
-OEM NB top hats
-Depowered steering rack, FM style, seals removed, pinion gear press pin
-Superpro poly steering rack bushings
-Curly Shade Tree Garage aluminum steering rack spacers
-R package tie rod ends
-Racing Beat rear control arm brace
-Thompson Automotive front control arm brace
-4.3 Torsen swap with Energy Supension Poly differential mounts
-949 Racing 7.8 Aluminum 1.6 flywheel
-Supermiata 1.6 Hybrid Organic clutch
-Trackspeed Engineering stainless clutch line
-5 speed tranny

Wheels/Tires
-TRM C3M 15x9 +36 offset wheels
-225/45/15 BFG Rival S

Brakes
-Hawk HP+ pads street/autox and Cobalt XR3/5 track (1.6)
-Brembo rotors
-Stainless braided lines
-ATE DOT 4 fluid
-DIY brake booster brace
-Wilwood proportioning valve (to be installed)

Safety
-HardDog Hardcore M2 Rollbar
-Sonic Motors VS3 driver seat
-Sonic Motors P2 passenger seat
-PCI V1 seat mounts
-Schroth Profi 6pt. camlock harness (driver)
-NRG quick release
-Works Bell steering wheel hub
-Momo Monte Carlo steering wheel

Interior
-DIY door panels, faux suede, RS style door pulls
-Innovate wideband gauge
-LED bulbs
-Kenwood 4 channel amp (hidden)
-Clarion 7 band EQ installed in glovebox
-Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5"/1" separate component speakers
-radio delete plate, switches for MS controlled lauch control, audio amplifier power
-delrin shift knob
-Billet pedals
-polished vent rings
-center console delete

Body/Cosmetics
-Snugtop hardtop
-Garage Vary rep front lip
-Front and rear tow hooks
-Garagestar black radiator panel
-Rspeed hood struts
-Turn signal intakes
-Rear bumper cut and bumper support delete
-APR carbon fiber mirrors and adapter plates
-antennae delete
-Rspeed side diffusers/skirts.
-Blackbird Fabworx adjustable lexan spoiler
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1990 Miata- VVT motor, Rotrex, 234hp/184tq, MCS suspension, 15x9 225/45/15, LED map lights

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Last edited by oregonmon; 09-28-2016 at 06:25 PM. Reason: updated.
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

This is my first Miata, but not my first fun car. Sold a 1979 Porsche 911 SC for this 1990 A package. Power steering no A/C.
Purchased for $5000. Including hardtop extra tranny, viscous LSD, new set of rotors pads, recent water pump, timing belt job, box of other OEM parts and a stack receipts.

This is how the Miata sat when I bought it.
Good selection of basic bolt ons for a fun street car.
Hard dog double diagonal bar
frame rails
14x6 Panasports with Falken Azenis with 25mm spacers
TSIs
FM front and rear sways
Koni sports with FCM top mounts and bumpstops on stock springs
Snugtop hardtop with rear defrost (never hooked up though)
Aftermarket stereo and speakers with aux input
Ebay catback exhaust

I plan to go through and document what I did and how I got to how it sits now, took lots of pics along the way.
Thanks for reading.




Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_1093.jpg (93.1 KB, 321 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1077.jpg (97.4 KB, 356 views)
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Last edited by oregonmon; 01-27-2014 at 03:06 AM.
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Welcome to CR those are both good looking cars
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Thanks. I've actually been on now for while, I just never had a build thread. Now looking back I wish I would have started long ago.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

yes, a build thread that I can come in and crap all over about damn time Ryan
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Quote:
Originally Posted by greddygalant View Post
yes, a build thread that I can come in and crap all over about damn time Ryan
You're off to a good start.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

In for thread crapping.

Hurry up old man! Stop trying to make this thread on your iphone 3gs.
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Quote:
Originally Posted by greddygalant View Post
yes, a build thread that I can come in and crap all over about damn time Ryan
Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_griego View Post
In for thread crapping.

Hurry up old man! Stop trying to make this thread on your iphone 3gs.
These!
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Never knew your top was a Snugtop. I still want to try a hardtop on my car.

Also, post pics of ticket plz.
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sploinkin View Post
Never knew your top was a Snugtop. I still want to try a hardtop on my car.

Also, post pics of ticket plz.
yes, do tell how you ran a red light trying to keep up with a loaded down Honda Odessey loaded with miata owners.
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

I've been running a depowered rack for a while now. The simple way of removing pump, belts, lines etc. But I wanted to improve on what I already liked about the steering so right now I have the rack out to remove the metal seal and address the play in the pinion gear. I was planning on having it welded, and I let my friend take it to his work but once the welder started to look at it they decided that it was not the best way to address this. So they ended up drilling and putting 2 pins in at 180 degrees from each other. They're press fit and glued and should be plenty strong, this is a large company that produces commercial chainsaws and I trust their judgment.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1390867395525.jpg (64.5 KB, 191 views)
File Type: jpg 1390867410485.jpg (92.2 KB, 201 views)
File Type: jpg 1390867423955.jpg (70.9 KB, 130 views)
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Last edited by oregonmon; 09-09-2014 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Poly bushings for the rack and R package tie rod ends are on order plus some spacers for the rack u brackets to help reduce bumpsteer.
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Oregonmon's white 1990

Another part of this project is to UP the spring rates from the 375/250 Ground Controls (on Konis) to 550 springs in the front and send the 375s to the rear.
Here's what the FCM top hats, 36 mm tophats looks like.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1390868751115.jpg (31.8 KB, 196 views)
File Type: jpg 1390868792326.jpg (43.4 KB, 196 views)
File Type: jpg 1390868823176.jpg (36.3 KB, 155 views)
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Last edited by oregonmon; 01-28-2014 at 03:06 AM.
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Ryan are you running a rear bar? Also what spacers did you go with for the steering rack?
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

An emphasis needs to be placed on weight reduction now. I think I convinced him to ditch the shock tower brace and convert the driver's side to a master cylinder brace. Also, if we can get the airbag light to turn off, he was all for deleting the heavy air bag sensors (x3), and possibly even the computers and plate under the steering wheel mount.
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Looks good! Would look even better if you sold me that hardtop! Keep up the good work.
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

I do currently have a stock rear bar on but with the new rates 550/375, it might need to come back off. The rear rates seem to be a little higher than the norm with 550 front.

Josh, I like your thoughts about being weight conscious. It's something that's definitely in the back of my mind, last week I put in a 11lb AGM motorcycle battery, replacing the wet-vented Miata battery at 20lbs. You definitely know more about what is useless in the engine bay than I, especially when it comes to electrical tape.

Not too long ago, AR put it on their scales, and with hardtop it was 2200lbs. So being topless for autox, I'm at 2150lbs. Since then, I've maybe dropped another 15lbs here and there.
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Last edited by oregonmon; 01-29-2014 at 03:22 AM.
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:22 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Here's said battery. Gotta come up with a more solid spacer. We'll see how long it lasts. 230CCA.
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File Type: jpg 1390940504642.jpg (36.4 KB, 124 views)
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Search around about the airbag light, that's a big savings between everything. Maybe around 10lbs. An easy one would be taking the hardtop off some day, folding back the rear deck carpet, removing this panel:



And getting all the foam out. I could feel more with my finger tips, but it ripped when I removed one of the chunks the other day. That stuff is dense and heavy!

For others reading: the car's previous owner stuff an insane amount of memory foam behind that panel and in the gaps on either side of the gas tank for sound deadening. Ryan said he removed a bunch earlier, I found a few more chunks. He definitely removed that panel himself and put it all over the place.

Roll bar also needs to come out eventually so so it's not bolted on to a pad of insulation.
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Here's some more of Curly ' s handy work. He did an awesome cut of the rear bumper with a jigsaw. It was the exact look I was hoping for. We cut up the bumper support a bit it mount it back on and the rest of it is sitting on the shelf. Needs to go in the garbage.
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File Type: jpg 1390940946534.jpg (36.6 KB, 211 views)
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Last edited by oregonmon; 09-09-2014 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:32 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

You picked up poly bushings? Which did you go with? I think you'll like them (minus install process).
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:56 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

SuperPro rack bushings, not control arm. Nail, did you have any luck with the spacers for the U brackets?
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:00 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Haven't looked into the matter. I'm going to guess I'll call it a day when the r ends arrive this week.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:07 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

I might get a chance to look around tomorrow.
They can't be too big or else you'll have to start looking for longer bolts.
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:55 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Interior sits like this right now.
Momo wheel
NRG QR hub
Hub adapter with airbag defeat
Console deleted
Garage Star shift extender
Sonic Motors VS3 seat
Schroth 6 point harness
My own interpretation of RS style doors, custom door cards with faux suede cover and strap door release.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1390952816397.jpg (73.3 KB, 227 views)
File Type: jpg 1390952876481.jpg (83.2 KB, 220 views)
File Type: jpg 1390952926845.jpg (43.4 KB, 208 views)
File Type: jpg 1390953061417.jpg (66.6 KB, 227 views)
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:11 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Get me the material, preferably aluminum, in the thickness you want it, and I'll measure out and cut the rack spacers, if they're not cheaply available online somewhere. My only cost would be enough material to make my own.
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:26 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Don't you think we could find washers that would fit?

Someone's going to tell me why that's a bad idea.
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:30 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Ryan Ill chip on buying some material so we can all have a set, does anyone know what the thickness is? I have access to a pretty decent variety of aluminum so it shouldnt be too hard. In terms of hardware, I think it would be easiest to go with longer bolts rather than a different U bracket.
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:31 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

I'll dig up some info on what guys are using.
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:38 PM   #30 (permalink)
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ryan, are you implying that you want to simply raise the rack with the use of washers?
After doing some digging this is what I found out
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"What I did was do two things. First I used the 1993 LE tie rod ends which have approx 3/16" more stud height which lowers the rod (in the USA the 93 LE was the lowest of all M1 Miata's from the factory and the factory supplied them with these special tie rod ends - part number 8AN2-32-280 and only available through Mazda Comp). I then machined 1/4" thick spacers for the steering rack to raise it back up (if you attempt to do this be very careful and know what you are doing as the width and hole size must be precise in order for the rack not to move or separate under load!). The idea is to get the steering rods as close to parallel with the control arms as possible."
this is assuming a ride height below 12 inches hub to fender.
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