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Old 01-28-2014, 07:46 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

yeah, that's what he's talking about.

Here's another homebrew solution, with better photo:

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=404073
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:47 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

If you use washers, your rack bushing won't have anything to rest on. If you rack bushings don't have anything to rest on, it'll jiggle around. Don't have a jiggly rack, make a full sized spacer.

I'm guessing HD has a wide enough 1/4" aluminum bar stock we could use. I could just cut it to length, and drill two holes to match the subframe mounting holes. Let me know.
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:49 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

ha, that's what I just finished telling him on fb chat.

Need to have that bushing tight.

For s13s you can get eccentric rack spacers that move the positioning of the rack (foward, for reduced ackerman change) -- almost seems like there's a need for some offset rack spacers to raise the rack for miatas.
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:01 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Josh, after finish your clutch fluids thursday lets run to the OC HD motorsports and get some aluminum and try it out.
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:55 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Sad face for no jiggly racks.
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:34 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Sad face for no jiggly racks.
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:59 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

^LOL.

Late but productive night, this steering rack has been a pretty fun project really.

I got the rack mostly put back together, everything is greased but a few nuts including the adjust spring nut, which requires a in/lb torque wrench.

The hardest part was getting the new boots on. Holy shit they makes those things fit tight.

So to do list consists of
-torque nuts
-job weld the hard line ends closed that we're cut
-install R Package tie rod ends (delivery for Thursday)
- see if Curly fabs up some 1/4" aluminum spacers for under the U brackets to raise the rack up

When it comes time to putting it back in the car, I'm not sure how lining up the splines, steering wheel, basic alignment will go.
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:17 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Here's a couple more of the pins press fitted into the pinion. You can actually see a pin in the very top of the splines. That is put in by the factory (Mazda) which then goes through the torsion spring that goes down into the pinion. So my buddy replicated that and pressed in 2 more pins 180 degrees opposite of each other where the 2 pieces are separate and twists causing the play in the steering. They took the whole thing apart, pretty funny. Way beyond my scope and I imagine not typically done due to the tools/equipment needed for this method.

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Last edited by oregonmon; 09-09-2014 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:24 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Foggy NW morning.
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:26 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

So is it all done and driving? Or is that an old picture.
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:51 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Not driving yet, thought I should at least have a picture of the whole car in build thread.
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:33 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Super fab rack spacers made. R package ends come today. Hopefully going back together and on the ground today.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:08 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Car is all back together and a lot of messing around with toe adjustment, removing steering wheel and hub adapter to different splines and so forth. I was running into the situation where left and right full lock were not equal.
Then what looked like fairly straight wheels in the air ended up being toed way out when put back on the ground. Let's justsay the first slow drive down the street, the wheel was a bit twitchy left and right. (Great turn in )
Got it back up and adjusted the toe with the tie rods. Much closer and ready for alignment.
R package tie rods and rack spacers went on as well. You can see in the picture the tie rods are close to parallel with the ground at the current ride height.
Speaking of ride height, the car is sitting higher, especially in the rear. I guess the higher spring rates means less sag?
So I'll need to play with this before alignment.
Can't say much for driving impressions, cause uh I was in no shape to drive last night. My buddy Todd, who has autoxed my car and also the one who pinned the pinion gear, drove while I sat passenger. I think it's safe to say the steering is immediate and you have to pay attention on roads with crowns and undulations, but again the alignment is off now. First impression of steering effort is It's a little lighter, nothing like OMG, but i need to drive it today to get a better feel. I also have read that a lot of guys with depowered racks shoot for 3.5 caster numbers.
550/375 rates didn't feel harsh over the bumps might also be I have more travel with the extra ride height, maybe the m.netters are on to something.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:18 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

New steering rack looks sharp with the new boots and rod end hardware.

Off topic: which HF floor jack is that? Looks larger than the 1.5. I need to get a bigger one to hoist up the M3 a little easier.

Off topic #2: you should create a photobucket or flickr account, host your photos there and then paste in with the correct code (IMG or BBC). Just my recommendation. : D
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:24 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by stormin'norman View Post
New steering rack looks sharp with the new boots and rod end hardware.

Off topic: which HF floor jack is that? Looks larger than the 1.5. I need to get a bigger one to hoist up the M3 a little easier.

Off topic #2: you should create a photobucket or flickr account, host your photos there and then paste in with the correct code (IMG or BBC). Just my recommendation. : D
Thanks!

Jack is actually from Costco, like $140. It's very nice but a little big now for a moderately low Miata.

Yes the photo hosting is messed up.
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:45 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Looks good ryan, what are your hub to fender measurements? and pinchweld to ground measurements?Are those superpro steering rack bushings?Did you end up reusing the stock hardware with the rack spacers or buy longer bolts?
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:53 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Haven't measured it at the higher height. If I had to guess it's probably 12.5f 12.75r, possibly higher. Yes Super Pro rack bushings and the factory bolts are long enough with 1/4" aluminum spacers.
Anybody know what toe numbers you've been running?
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:00 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Ive seen 1/16th toe out to be pretty popular, so far though Ive been running 0 all around.
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:57 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

I would just follow 949's recommendation unless you're trying to induce some weird behaviors for cone punting.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:42 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Default Oregonmon's white 1990

Another fairly easy mod that Curly recommended and made a great difference in pedal feel. We looked at the brake booster while someone pressed on the brake pedal. There's no doubt, that whole assembly moves. So I used the bracket that my strut brace uses and drilled a hole and fitted bolt, washer, nut which butts right against the assembly. The pedal feels is quite a bit firmer, I mean it's really great. Whether the strut brace goes back on is up for debate.

I need to get a longer bolt so I can utilize the strength of both pieces.
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Last edited by oregonmon; 02-02-2014 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:37 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Save the weight and just keep the plate + brake brace. Those hinged tower braces move as the chassis moves.

Steve Dinan openly admitted that his hinged CF Dinan braces for strut BMWs are simply engine bay dress up. That's on a car that should actually see some benefit from a tower brace (our cars less so). Save for a fixed Carbing, Okuyama or Mazdaspeed 3 point if you must have the bling. Those are noticeable though marginally.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:40 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Yeah, although that thing ways nothing. If it really is just a dress up item, makes less sense because I think it looks better without it. I did throw the original brace bolt in its original hole to further connect the 2 pieces of the bracket.

Now, that ugly AFM needs to go.

Here's my numbers from my last alignment. Not bad camber numbers, I think I'll try about the same if not a little closer to 3.5 on the caster. And maybe 1/16th rear toe.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:56 PM   #53 (permalink)
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B&W.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:55 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Bring your whole brace over to me, two easy bolts and it'll come off.

I'll shave it down to minimum height, weld a piece of metal on top (to replace that bolt) so it won't flex in/out, weld a nut on so you don't have to have a bunch of funky hardware, and paint it flat black. You'll be the envy of the do it yourself brake master cylinder brace club.
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:03 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Thanks Josh for the offer.

Alignment is scheduled for Friday. It's driving great. The steering is so direct and I think it will invoke a lot of confidence at the limit of traction. I think about at track/autox and when I would be sawing a bit at the wheel on long sweepers and I now realize I was using steering input against the play in the rack. I should be able to really push it and keep it right on the knife edge so to speak. I lowered it some today so right now it's at 5" at the pinch welds, front and rear. Needs a little lower but I don't want to sacrifice rear travel.
Got the steering hub, QR, and steering wheel back on and it's tracking dead straight.
Although it does follow the cracks and crowns in the road. I think I notice it even more now because the play is gone. Sacrifices. .. We'll see how off the alignment on Friday.

Took it for a little spray off.
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Old 02-04-2014, 11:35 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Drove by America's Tire to get some free air check. Combination of winter and not checking pressures since last autox resulted in tire pressures at a anemic 22psi. Bumped up to 34ish, now this is the steering feel I was hoping for.
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:05 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Moar lowar plz.
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Old 02-05-2014, 02:19 AM   #58 (permalink)
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^clubroadster kids
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Old 02-06-2014, 02:19 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Here's a little more low. If I want any sort of rear travel on the rear this is about as low as I feel comfortable with.
But I should be able to get good camber numbers in the front.
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Old 02-06-2014, 02:27 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Default Re: Oregonmon's white 1990

Looks good.

You should seriously host your photos somewhere.
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