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Old 06-16-2014, 11:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Meet Phee

So Phee is my second Miata. She is really a continuation of Jumbata's build, but I won't do everything exactly the same the second time around. I crashed Jumbata less than two weeks ago and through my insurance company and craigslist, Phee was in my driveway four days ago. Very happy with the whole process - especially how fast it was. I feel almost back to normal. Almost.

I named this car Phee, a more girly incarnation of Pheonix. The car that rose from the ashes of Jumbata.

Say hi to Phee.





The goods: never in any accidents. The PO was a 62 year old cool guy who was really into the Miata. He did quite a few mods I hadn't even done with the previous build. All polyurethane bushings through out the whole suspension. Stainless braided brake lines and clutch line. Brand new paint this past November! I looked at all the panels for repair work - he assured me there wasn't even any bondo except for one place on a rocker. Besides being a little dirty and having swirl marks in the paint (but not terrible) I think it looks as good as any stock 1994.

I sold the red hard top to a buddy the same day I brought the car home.

Over the next 72 hours... the last three days in a row, I have done very little besides work on swapping parts into Phee. My family was out of town so all I did was work on the car, eat, shower and sleep. I easily have 45 hours into her.

Swapped in my tail lights and TRM wheels as soon as I got home.



FCM coilovers and sway bar going in. Not a huge fan of the painted calipers but I have wilwoods going in anyway so for now I can deal. Cool upgrade on the stainless lines.



Cool! Racing beat rear end links! My old ones were stock so bonus upgrade!





BEFORE - look at how HIGH Phee's butt is! Ridiculous. Almost embarrassed to drive her like that.



After. SO much better.





Next I got busy on the interior. Swapped over my tombstone, center console, shifter knob, eBrake handle, vent rings, upper door card bolsters... and my brand new Roadster5 door cards. No door handles installed yet. I'm having some custom made.





Phee already feels like home... but she sure doesn't have any guts. She's stock under the hood with 177,000 miles and has left a few ponies out in the pasture. She'll puff some smoke on hard shifts and acceleration. PO upgraded the clutch, which is nice but so did I, so I have a motor with 22,000 miles on it ready to drop in. I really miss my supercharger.

Installed the Hard Dog Extreme roll bar and my custom harness bar. Didn't take many photos, but here is the support behind the seat.



In this shot you can see both backing plates for the roll bar install.



Went ahead and did a little work under the hood just for pride's sake. Nothing I'll need to undo for a motor swap. Gas shock hood raise was first - to make working under the hood easier... forever.





PO did the powdercoated VC and intake manny, plus the strut tower brace. I added the washer fluid relocation, Garage Star cowl cover and the Moroso coolant overflow tank. Need to remove the stock washer bottle to make room for the Rotrex gear. Thought it would be nice to turn that bottle into a water/meth storage tank... but let's not get too far ahead of the build!

Better photos coming, but a buddy of mine took this one after a my first canyon run in Phee, with the new suspension, wheels, roll bar and Project-G bikini top. Not bad for three days of work!


Last edited by jumbosrule; 06-16-2014 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 06-16-2014, 12:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Meet Phee

Looks awesome! What are your thoughts on the polyurethane bushings?
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Old 06-16-2014, 01:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Looks awesome! What are your thoughts on the polyurethane bushings?
I had mixed emotions when I found out there were poly bushings. It's something I decided I would NOT do on my last build, because it really is a race modification that takes away from the comfort of the daily drive. When I test drove the car on the poly bushings and stock suspension, the bushings squeaked terribly over speed bumps or driveway dips. They definitely ride more stiffly - there is more vibration in the cabin, and I can clearly hear a differential whine at highway speeds. In fact there are two or three speeds at which things start and stop vibrating on their own.

With the new suspension on, the squeaks magically reduced. I think it's really because I'm now wearing the bushings in a new location as compared to before. The natural ride height places the forces in a new place on the poly bushings, plus I have less suspension travel because of the lower coils. Those two things give me a pretty squeak-free ride, except if I hit bumps at higher speeds, then I can hear them a little.

The negatives called out, I'm overall happy they were installed. Steering response is MUCH sharper. I don't feel a significant weight shift when changing directions and the feedback through the car is definitely sharper and more sensitive. Besides lubing them, they should last the life of the car.

Faced with needing new bushings for a daily driver, I'd stick with OEM. The cost of the bushings, plus labor to install them makes them a pretty expensive mod in either time or money. If you can get a car with them already installed like I did, then I wouldn't turn the car down just because of them. If you need new OEM bushings, it's probably cheaper to just buy the entire A-arm with OEM bushings installed. Even cheaper if you pull a lower mileage set of arms (with good bushings) out of a yard.

For a dedicated toy/ track car, why not? That's where my build direction falls - right smack in the middle of toy, track car and show car all in one.

Right now my plan is to get rid of the differential bushings. They transfer the most noise into the car. Phee came with an open differential and I have a torsen in Jumbata so I'm just going to swap the entire driveline; motor, transmission, driveshaft, differential and axels. I'll keep the OEM bushings on my differential and I think that will be a good compromise.
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Old 06-16-2014, 01:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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hi Phee!!!
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Old 06-16-2014, 02:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Man, thanks for the honest feedback on the poly bushings. I am really on the fence right now as to install those or rubber bushings in my car. It is mainly going to be a track/autocross toy, and although it's not a DD, it will see plenty of street action. Not sure if the on track performance would be worth the decrease in comfort on the street. Sounds like I might need to stick to rubber. Some of the tracks I go to are four hours away, and I don't want to arrive "beat to death." LOL
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Old 06-16-2014, 04:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Congrats Brad! You don't see ABS on miatas very often. I personally would keep the diff bushings because even at stock power levels in the right conditions I get wheel hop so I can only imagine with double the stock power. Look forward to the transformation!
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Man, thanks for the honest feedback on the poly bushings. I am really on the fence right now as to install those or rubber bushings in my car. It is mainly going to be a track/autocross toy, and although it's not a DD, it will see plenty of street action. Not sure if the on track performance would be worth the decrease in comfort on the street. Sounds like I might need to stick to rubber. Some of the tracks I go to are four hours away, and I don't want to arrive "beat to death." LOL
I never regretted having OEM bushings on Jumbata and I tracked that car a decent amount. Jumbata's bushings had 237000 miles on them and still had some life left. The last time I got an alignment, the shop told me the bushings were wearing enough to effect alignment - so they had to compensate but still got everything into spec. When I was ready for bushings at some point in the future, I would have gone with new OEM, or an entire A-arm replacement (OEM or aftermarket) with rubber bushings already installed.

Now that I have the poly bushings I'm going to live with them and be happy about it because they will make me enjoy the track and canyon carving more. Driving around for fun a little less... but I should be able to take care of that with stereo volume, right???

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Congrats Brad! You don't see ABS on miatas very often. I personally would keep the diff bushings because even at stock power levels in the right conditions I get wheel hop so I can only imagine with double the stock power. Look forward to the transformation!
I know - the ABS is kinda crazy, right? I'm seriously considering removing it all. I'm not even sure if it's working properly and I'd prefer no ABS on the track. This is also why I did not install the Wilwood calipers when doing the suspension. I have no idea how to bleed ABS and haven't studied up on it yet. Got plenty of other things I'd like to do first, you know? I'll get there...

It also has power windows and power mirrors, neither of which Jumbata had, so that's an upgrade! Wearing the harness, there is no way to roll down Jumbata's passenger window from the driver's side to talk to somebody next to you. Not that it happens all the time, but often enough in the last five years that I'm pretty jazzed about the power windows in Phee.

I never had wheel hop with OEM bushings @ 208whp. Usually wheel hop is an improperly valved shock body, not bushings. The shock could be damaged or just worn out but I really dont think the wheel hop is from the differential bushings. Are you running the rear stock sway bar? Is this only on launch or around a corner?
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Stock rear sway and usually it was in rain when taking off from a stop and accelerating quickly while turning...not sure if it has happened since I installed the FCM coilovers. The only two fixes, that I know of, for wheel hop for the Miata is a PPF brace and or poly diff bushings.
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Stock rear sway and usually it was in rain when taking off from a stop and accelerating quickly while turning...not sure if it has happened since I installed the FCM coilovers. The only two fixes, that I know of, for wheel hop for the Miata is a PPF brace and or poly diff bushings.
While turning it's definitely your differential (gotta be LSD?). It's hitting locking speed/rpm as you accelerate and because you are going around a corner with a locked differential, one wheel hops.

Same thing would happen in Jumbata. Originally I had an open diff, but got a lower mileage used Torsen a couple years ago so I got to drive it both ways. Definitely a (normal) side effect of the LSD. I honestly would not expect bushings or braces on the PPF to do much for wheel hop, which it sounds like you don't have anyway.

I finished up the seat and harness install. These seats seem to fit better in Phee. I guess Jumbata's frame was tweaked more than I realized. Also threw on the Project-G string top a couple days ago. Replaced the latches with brackets, which allows me to really adjust the tension with the turnbuckles for which I replaced the webbing and plastic slide adjusters.



A little dark, but from the back I like the bar pattern. The center bar is strictly for the G-string. When the top comes off, so does that center bar.



Also swapped in smoked signals front and side. Vader style.



A local upholstery shop about three blocks away from me made me new handles based on the white stitched handles that came with the Roadster5 door cards. I also changed up the mounting hardware; only the large stainless washer is original.



And a total bonus - I had my silver queen key made for Jumbata just a few weeks ago. I took Phee's key to the shop and had them over-cut the silver queen. It just happened to work out and the key works fine in Phee now!



I just hit Harbor Freight online for a cherry picker and engine stand. Hopefully soon after they arrive, I'll be pulling Jumbata's motor, doing some maintenance on it and then dropping it in to Phee. Already have a full exhaust waiting to go in; Racing Beat header, Magnaflow high flow cat and cat-back.



Jumbata's motor is almost stripped - clutch line and driveshaft are the only two things left to disconnect before I can pull it. I put on a temporary valve cover for the transplant.


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Old 06-23-2014, 11:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Got some bump in my trunk again. I've carried this sub through the last three project cars and the thing is still hanging in there. It was originally a POS model from Pyle, 800W amplified. The tube is a little beat on the ends, but it has it's own adjustable crossover and gain, so it sounds sharp and punchy when dialed in... which it is. The whole sound system is SO much better with the addition of the sub.






Yeah, it takes up almost the whole trunk... it fits perfectly into the recessed area. But it's easy to remove for track days. The PO installed aftermarket speakers and a Kenwood head unit with Satellite receiver. I removed that gear and installed my own Kenwood head unit, which used the exact same harness adapter, so I didn't have to rewire anything behind the tombstone. I did have to run the rear channel RCA cables, trigger wire and ground wire to the sub. I like ALL stereo components to be grounded to the same point, so I ran the sub ground wire to the stereo ground behind the tombstone, under the armrest console, under the parcel shelf and into the trunk.

Now installed is my Kenwood, Revlimiter's HVAC panel along with a PLX multi-gauge with ILM motorsport gauge/cubby. The PLX displays both Boost/Vac, and AFR/O2. It can select-ably display up to 32 sensor modules daisy chained, can show a 30 scrolling graph window, max and min readings, or a single large digital number. Love this product - can be mounted almost ANYWHERE because the thing is less than a half inch thick.



The tombstone wrap was Redline Goods, and all the red aluminum bits I rattle can painted myself. Most of these pieces are easy to swap in and out so I change them up from time to time.

Next up, gauge cluster, cluster hood, speedo cable and removing... things... from the engine bay. My cherry picker and engine stand are supposed to be here later today so I'm feeling a few hours of work coming on this week.

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Old 06-23-2014, 12:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm jealous of that bikini top!
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Need to take photos of some smaller completed projects but I was pretty psyched up to post these. I got my Harbor Freight delivery and wasted no time putting it to use.







And I have started stripping Phee's engine bay for the swap. I decided to keep both the power steering pump and the air conditioning compressor from Phee, so I removed them from the engine but did not disconnect any of the hydraulic lines. I've bungee corded them as far over as I can without putting too much stress on the hoses. Hopefully I'll have enough clearance to pull the old motor and drop in the new, so then I can just bolt up the compressor and pump.



So far I've plucked out the headlights, cruise control, Emissions gear, the radiator & fans, the front sway bar, cat-back exhaust, some braces and brackets, the old serpentine belts and most of the wiring has been disconnected.

Old rad next to the new one, waiting for it's turn for installation into Phee.



I also pulled off Phee's exhaust, except for the stock exhaust manifold. Couldn't see the last bolt because it was getting too dark so I thought I would call it a night. Pretty motivated to get the swap done so I can stop playing garage junk tetris every night I want to push the car into the garage.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Another hard six hours of working on Phee. All of this is still a first for me. Never pulled a motor before. Never installed one before.

I removed a lot of things in prep for all the items I have going in at once. Headlights came out because of the Cobalt lowpros going in. Radiator came out for the Koyo/FM fan&shroud. Bumper came off for the Rotrex intercooler. I removed the front mounted washer bottle since I relocated the reservoir to the wiper cowl.

Phee's motor coming out



The 22,000 mile motor in the foreground (temporary grey VC), Phee's 178,000 mile motor with red VC and intake manifold.



After a quick wipe down of the engine bay surfaces and a few repaired wire harness looms



And I have to admit that getting the motor back in was a LOT harder than getting it out. Mostly because I did it all alone, I think. Another set of hands and eyes would have been great because I had to keep making small adjustments that had me getting under the car and back to the hoist repetitively. Now that I have done it, I know what to look for, "next time".

The fresh motor sitting on the motor mounts, bolted to the PPF. I noticed a cracked oil seal at the crank shaft so I'm getting a new one before installing the driveshaft.



Still so much to do, but I'm excited about it.

Torsen swap
oil seal + driveshaft install
Swap Wilwood calipers, stainless lines + eBrake
install RB header, Magnaflow high flow cat and cat-back
install RB front sway & Cobalt adjustable end links
install Koyo Radiator & FM fans/shroud/hoses
attach AC & power steering pumps
Install Rotrex supercharger & oil cooler loops
Install supercharger belt & auto tensioner
Install SM oil catch can
Install shaved intake manifold & vacuum block
Install lowpro headlights
Install OEM front bumper & air dam
Install undertray
Install Strut tower brace
Plumb & wire washer reservoir
Install Cowl Cover
Install pretty VC and COPs
Fresh oil in the tranny


And the one item I have been sort of putting off... wiring the AEM EMS-4 with all the sensors, including the two PLX modules linked to the multigage. Theoretically I should be able to just plug and play everything since the motor, trans, fuel system and wires all came from the same car. I don't exactly know how the ABS system will play with the EMS4 or if it's transparent and has it's own control circuits. I also don't know if there is any significant OEM wiring harness differences between 94 and 95. Guess we will find out.
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Looks great, I always love Red/ Black combo
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Old 06-29-2014, 12:18 AM   #15 (permalink)
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My hands are killing me from bruises, knuckle busters and radiator slices and I think they are permanently stained, even though I have been wearing multiple pairs of mechanics gloves. I've been the dirtiest I have ever been working on a car more than once in the past week. Showers now include a stiff brush that really kind of hurts but it's the only thing that works with soap to get off the grease from my legs, elbows and forearms. Pretty sure I'm going to need to throw away a shirt or two.

Let's see - got a lot done today.

Inside the car I installed the shifter and center console. IL Motorsport dead pedal and throttle pedal, black grip tape on the gas and clutch pedals. Custom side sills... and the interior is pretty much done.

Attached all of the AC components and the system is now ready for leak check and charging. Power steering pump was installed along with the Rotrex supercharger bracket, and I went ahead and did the majority of the charge pipe plumbing including the intercooler as well as the supercharger oil loop. Loosely installed the RB header just to make sure I could get it in before the Rotrex was in the way. Installed the Koyo radiator with FM shroud/fan combo and all the hoses. Installed my front tow hook.





Here's a shot of the cluster I finished a couple days ago. Replaced the Speedo cable today as well but still need to hook it into the cluster. The wheel is temporary. I actually like the Sparco that came with Phee, but I want to get it re-wrapped before I make the permanent switch.



The extension housing rear seal at the back of the transmission has completely heat baked onto the metal. I cant remove the seal because it just breaks apart anywhere I put pressure on it. It's hard and not pliable at all. I'll do a little reading and take another shot at it, but I've pulled out about 15 small pieces of the seal and I'm not making any headway. The majority of the seal isn't moving. Hopefully there's a trick to removing it.

Thinking I should attack some wiring before the intake manifold goes on. Should be easier to reach everything. I'm going into the wiring without worrying about tucking anything. Just get it all hooked up and running... then I can go back later and worry more about presentation.

And as I am working I discover other projects I forgot to list in my last post, like the tow hooks for example.

The tire tail (track wheel carrier)
Frame rail reinforcement braces
OEM underbody braces
Rear Strut Tower Brace

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Old 06-29-2014, 11:05 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Was the speedo cable difficult to replace? Looks fiddly
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Old 06-29-2014, 12:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Seeing this car makes me want to scrap my chassis and get a clean Miata bast to put all my parts on... Your Miata is super clean and looks good man, keep up the work, gonna follow this build!
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Was the speedo cable difficult to replace? Looks fiddly
It's actually not that bad.. Probably 20-30 minutes to do it
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:39 PM   #19 (permalink)
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It's actually not that bad.. Probably 20-30 minutes to do it
Maybe a little longer if you have never messed around with the gauge cluster. You have to remove the hood and then the four screws holding the cluster to the dash to attach the cable to the back of the cluster. Removing the OEM clips holding the old cable to the chassis might be the hardest part - they are tough to see.

Today I attacked the OEM wiring; got almost the entire OEM harness hooked up, along with a custom circuit needed for the IAC as well as the COPs. Tucked the injector harness and did some looming and some routing.

Also mounted the Saikou Michi oil catch can, but not the hoses till the nice VC is installed. Installed the custom intake manifold and finished hooking in the TB and IAC along with the rest of the charge pipes. Rotrex is fully installed now. Threw in the vacuum block but did not mount it. Need to place it a little differently since the ABS unit is in the way in this car. Also started plumbing in a 5x racing fuel pressure gauge to go with the 5x racing adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

The daily progress shot:



Also hooked up the heater core hoses and then filled the radiator with coolant/distilled water.
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:46 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Nice work!

Also - I think I will be PM'ing you some time in the near future for a bit more info on the bushings. I need to do mine and want to make sure I'm not dropping half a grand on something I'm not going to like!
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Old 06-30-2014, 10:48 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Nice work!

Also - I think I will be PM'ing you some time in the near future for a bit more info on the bushings. I need to do mine and want to make sure I'm not dropping half a grand on something I'm not going to like!
Thanks. PM anytime or just post up here - it's relevant to Phee since she has a full set of poly bushings.

Today I took it easy, only worked for a little while. Decided I was far enough along that the Valve Cover would be safe, so I swapped in my cut, shaved, DIY rattle can VC and hooked in the lowpro headlights, sans the lid covers. The black housings are replacement parts from Moss - my originals were crushed in the donor car's wreck.

Starting to get a driver's itch. Need to hear that motor turn over in a new chassis.



One of the little things I sort of came up with was making a 3/8 hard line, then covering it with silicone hose. This allows me to get all the benfits of a hard line for vacuum or pressure, with consistent hoses in the bay. I can shape the hard line with 90 bends and the silicone appears to be formed. In the last build I used them for three things; the bypass valve vacuum line, the catch can PCV line, and the connection between the intake manifold and the vacuum block. I'm re-making all three of those for slightly different routing in Phee - things I would have tweaked if I had the chance. First one is the intake manifold to vacuum block, which will allow me to mount the vaccum block in a place that does not interfere with the strut tower brace or the ABS system. It's harder than it looks to get right!

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Old 07-01-2014, 12:10 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Default Re: Meet Phee

Looks beautiful especially after all the continuous hard work. Good on you!
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:58 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Default Re: Meet Phee

sad to see jumbata go. must be kinda nice to get a fresh start in phee though! things a looking great!
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Old 07-04-2014, 06:41 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Default Re: Meet Phee

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Originally Posted by surfsexsea View Post
Looks beautiful especially after all the continuous hard work. Good on you!
Thanks. Still a bit more work to go, but I've been able to put a lot of time into it since I brought Phee home.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phung018 View Post
sad to see jumbata go. must be kinda nice to get a fresh start in phee though! things a looking great!
Appreciate it - after it's all said and done, I've got a better platform for all the Jumbata mods, except for a few of the body mods which is where I will be different with Phee. Plus there are a few differences that sort of demand I take some different approaches.

I got the Strut Tower Brace installed yesterday, but had to move one of the ABS hardlines for clearance. Bolted the towers down first, then drilled the holes in the firewall and mounted the steel 90 degree bracket inside the cowl. After the STB was bolted to the 90 deg brace, I drilled the holes in the cowl to mount the bottom of the 90 degree. Used silicone in these holes just in case the car ever sees rain again.

This also gave me the location for the vacuum block, so I made one of the steel hardlines covered with silicone hose.



I also made the PCV to catch can line the same way so the vacuum block and the catch can are now custom plumbed for Phee.



Before I can replace the Garage Star cowl cover, I need to wire in the washer fluid pump. But the engine bay is really close to using up all the parts I have waiting to go in.

Just a few things remaining to hook up in the engine bay before wiring for the AEM. Need to feed a vacuum line into the cabin for the PLX boost/vac sensor - that's the coiled vacuum line sitting on top of the ABS/vacuum block. Also need to take care of just a few more OEM wires/connectors. The Rotrex RRFPR, fuel pressure gauge and a few lines need to be temporarily hooked in because as soon as I get the car running, I'll be ditching the RRFPR and getting a new tune. The 5x racing APFR is installed and currently set for OEM pressure. Probably smart to get it looked at after replacing an entire drivetrain and changing components in the fuel system.

Think I have what I need to remove and replace the transmission/driveshaft oil seal.



But I'll do the brakes first because the eBrake is totally accessible right now with the exhaust and driveshaft removed. Installing the Wilwood eBrake cables with those installed made it really tough last time.

I'm thinking I'll go to a service shop to get the brakes/ABS bled, A/C checked and charged and anything else for which I don't have the right gear. But that assumes I get this thing up and running on the AEM myself... which at this point I give myself a 60% of my being successful.

I'd love to get the wreck out of my garage but until I dedicate a few hours to removing everything I can sell, it sits there.

Last edited by jumbosrule; 07-04-2014 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 07-04-2014, 11:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Default Re: Meet Phee

Great head way Brad! I never knew you had the Cobalt low pro headlights, you don't happen to have them rewired per Revlimiter specs for all four headlights for brights do you? Either way how do you like the light output? I like the Jass Performance kit better aesthetically speaking but I would rather have the one with the better light output which especially with the four wire for highs I know that is the Cobalt kit.
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:44 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Default Re: Meet Phee

awesome nice car

mind giving a link or telling where you got those smoked turn signals?!
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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awesome nice car

mind giving a link or telling where you got those smoked turn signals?!

Thanks man. Sure, no problem- they came from eBay. This is the second set I have purchased from eBay and I can't complain about the build quality. Light output is a little weak but for the price, I say go for it. Think I got the front signals and both the front and rear side signals for $120. They all came with bulbs and also replacement wire harnesses for the front signals.

On the Cobalt low pros, no I don't have them wired like rev limiter and wish I did. Future mod. That being said I think the regular beams have better output than OEM bugeyes. The brights are fine but I can see how the Rev Limiter mod would make them mo betta. Both are easy to aim and can be dialed in pretty quickly. The kit does require you cut off an OEM bracket and that's something you can't undo without replacing the headlight frame. They don't block any of the road and I like the look so much better! I like the headlights on the outside, the brights on the inside, because at night it really does make the car seem lower and wider. Almost unidentifiable as a Miata until right on top of it, which I really like. I'd say totally worth it if you can find them used. New the $550 price tag is a little hard to swallow.

Today I swapped in the FM little big brake kit. These are forged four piston calipers and braided steel lines on all four corners. Also comes with it's own eBrake cables. Uses stock sized rotors so I've got two spare sets to go before I have to buy them again.



Because I have ABS, I can't use the proportioning valve according to FM. Not exactly sure what that implies - the car will compensate? Doesn't seem correct, especially with wider wheel/tire and suspension combos. Will have to read more on this one - or just call FM.

The front sway bar went in and I guess the front bumper can go back on any time now. The sway was a little more of a pain because of the ABS sensor wires. Not quite as easy to thread in from one side but with a few extra steps it went in.

The transmission extension housing oil seal popped out on my fourth try with my new tool. Having the new seal really helped me to know what was seal and what was transmission, when prying out the old one. The new seal went in with a block of wood and a dead blow hammer. Driveshaft went back on easily, but not torqued because I still plan to swap in a Torsen for the current open diff.

Today was a two shirt, two showers and a nap kind of work day on the car.

Last edited by jumbosrule; 07-05-2014 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:23 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Default Re: Meet Phee

I had a really hard time with these stainless lines, since it only uses one nut to hold the block the hard line wouldn't go in straight.

You work fast!
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:45 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Default Re: Meet Phee

IIRC to set up a prop valve on an ABS car, you need to disable to the ABS system, then set the brake balance. After that you can power the ABS back up and enjoy.

I know some people like to wire up a toggle for the ABS system too….
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:23 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Default Re: Meet Phee

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IIRC to set up a prop valve on an ABS car, you need to disable to the ABS system, then set the brake balance. After that you can power the ABS back up and enjoy.

I know some people like to wire up a toggle for the ABS system too….
Both of those things sound good. I've heard of just pulling the ABS fuse but I think a switch would be nice. I need to do my homework on it anyway - thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

I finished wiring the washer fluid pump in the cowl, replaced the cowl cover, installed the front bumper and a bunch of billet washer bling everywhere I could find a place for them.

For some reason in this car the Rotrex oil reservoir sits too high for me to be able to use the radiator panel. Will have to figure out a solution for that before I'm happy. Thinking relocation for both the reservoir and the cooler, maybe with a dedicated cooler fan? TBD.

The first formed hose I made goes from the intake manifold to the vacuum block. The vacuum line to the boost gauge is the only one I have not routed yet. The small bundle of connectors sticking up will be removed from the harness.



You can see a good shot of the formed hose I made for the PCV line to the catch can in this photo.



And mostly finished in the engine bay - all that remains is the ECU wiring and finishing up the fuel system, this time with a pressure gauge downstream of the fuel rail.

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