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Old 07-28-2016, 11:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 99 Miata HPDE build

I wanted to start a thread to compile the progress on my build and also write reviews on products and services for everyones benefit. So without further ado, I present Suede...

The purpose of the build is to put together a fun, fast and good looking Miata for track days and maybe some time trial competitions. The plan is to K swap the car and build the rest of the car to support the added power. Below is the cars condition when I purchased it on 7/13/2015. The previous owner was originally planning to build a Spec Miata racer out of this specimen but lost interest and promptly sold the car. It is a 99 Standard NB with 94k miles on the clock, still running. The interior has been completely gutted including door glass and top, the only piece that was left was the dashboard.

-Julian
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Last edited by VelocityxVolume; 07-28-2016 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 07-29-2016, 01:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The first step after receiving the car was to get the dashboard installed, plug in a steering wheel and install a seat. A trip to the wrecking yard later and a factory Nardi steering wheel was ready to be installed. For a seat I chose to use the Ultra Shield rally sport from my previous trackday car, my old 84 CR-X, along with a quickly fabbed up seat bracket. It wasnt a perfect seat or a perfect fit but it was enough to get the car driveable. These aluminum seats have a fairly significant amount of flex to them especially if used without a back support brace. Also, in this case, the wings of the seat(shoulder supports) hit the door, even without the door panels. All in all, it was a big upgrade from the ammo can I was using to drive it around with!

With the seat installed, it was apparent I now needed some form of restraints and mounting. I was lucky enough to find a used Blackbird single diagonal roll bar from another member here and was able to use my 5 point Simpson harness from the trusty CR-X. The rollbar install was fairly straight forward with some cutting of the rear shelf panel and drilling involved. Overall the bar fit into place nicely, my only gripe was that the mounting brackets around the b pillar area which go through the bulkhead didnt follow the angle of the bulkhead which made it a bit difficult to get everything bolted down properly. Otherwise the bar went in smoothly and appears to be a high quality piece. Ive owned a Harddog and Autopower in the past and I would say the quality between them is very similar. The harness install was also straight forward fabbing some brackets for the lap belt and crotch strap mounting. The shoulder belts were wrapped around the harness bar on the BB roll bar.
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Old 02-20-2017, 05:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Next was some engine bay clean up. The bare aluminum valve cover was removed, cleaned and spray with VHT wrinkle black. The San Diego summer sun was my heat source to help motivate the wrinkling. At this point I've done several valve covers this way but this one turned out particularly good. While the cover was I out I took the time to replace the gaskets to prevent future leaks from the 17 year old seal. I topped it off with a slim oil cap from Hybrid Racing to foreshadow the future Honda swap. The cap is a slim and low profile cap with a flip up tab to help loosen the cap for removal. HR offers the cap in either silver or matte black. Very high quality piece with good machining and a nice surface finish...but who am I kidding, it's just an oil cap.





-Julian
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Old 02-20-2017, 10:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Seeing as the car came rolling on 14" steelies with all weather tires, another necessary upgrade was a new set of shoes. Luckily I had already purchased a set of 949 6UL's in 15 x 9 with the nickel finish. I wrapped them in a used set of Hankook's Z214 medium compound tire, admittedly these tires were heavily heat cycled and on their last leg but still a big upgrade from the all weathers which the car had originally came with. The original idea was to continue using used sets of tires until the suspension and the car were at a point where it was close to dialed in. No use in burning up a nice new set of R compounds while getting the car set up.





Unfortunately, with the new wheels and tires the stock suspension got to looking a little 4x4ish. So in the mean time I installed some Tein S-tech lowering springs to get the Miata to bend its knees a little bit. This is really just a temporary set up until I can scope out a used set of good coilovers, I've got my eye on the Xidas specifically.



The S-techs got the car looking halfway normal and as a bonus the ride is not so bad. Spring rate is increased slightly but certainly nothing to write home about and nothing anyone would consider "track worthy".

-Julian
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Old 02-21-2017, 12:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Tackling the front brakes was next. I knew I wanted to upgrade to a big brake kit but with so many on offer I was going to have to do some research to pick out just the right one. A significant reduction in unsprung weight, big improvement in pedal feel, increase in braking force and cheaper consumables(pads/rotors) were the benefits and honestly pretty much the same across the board.

I settled on getting the V8Roadsters Pro Series kit with a standard 11.75" rotor and the forged Dynapro radial mount caliper. I chose this particular kit mostly because of the Dynapro caliper and its construction which I prefer over the more common Dynalite. It is important to note that between the two calipers pad area is the same, however on the Dynapro pad volume is increased(a thicker pad essentially). I had hoped to find a 4 pot option with additional pad area over the Dynalite, but that search came up fruitless.



The brakes looked like a work of art during unboxing, from the machined lightweight rotor hats to the finish on the calipers. It was also nice that the kit was all encompassing, it even included a liter of Wilwood brake fluid. I couldn't wait to see them behind the 6UL's and feel them on the other side of that pedal.
Installation was straight forward, with the only hick up being the caliper mounting bolts. It seemed the I.D. on the caliper mounting holes was just a hair too tight to get the bolts to slip in. I suspect this was likely caused by the finish adding a few thousandths of material extra, a common issue with coatings or surface treatments. A quick clean up pass with a drill bit was all that was needed to get them to slide on through and in a few hours it was time for a test drive.



A special note on fitment. This will(barely) clear the 15x9 6UL wheels that I am using but they are extremely close. Close enough that the wheel weights were touching the caliper body bolts when I first mocked them up. I had to remove them to the recessed part of the wheel in order to clear them. No spacers were required to clear the spokes however.

This kit worked great from the start with a very noticeable increase in pedal feel. The pedal is firm upon application with great consistency and modulation characteristics. The pads were also a great surprise, they seemed to provide good torque without causing too much racket. Cold bit is also completely acceptable. They seem to be a great inbetween pad, providing significantly more performance than a stock, run of the mill pad without all the squealing and cold bite issues of most track pads. Very pleased with this package from V8Roadsters and happy to have them at the pointy end of my car! Lets see how well they handle track duty!

-Julian

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Old 02-21-2017, 03:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Around the same time, I made several small upgrades to the car. First and foremost was an upgraded set of sway bars from Eibach Springs finished with a set of end links from 949 Racing. The sway bars were an easy and straightforward install with only minor removal of trim and heat shielding needed for clearance. The end links were also straightforward with some extra patience needed for adjusting the bar position level when ride height is static. The end links themselves appear to be a great quality product with an anodized matte black finish on the central union. The kit also features spacers to allow for a nearly vertical position when installed. I added lock washers during install on my set since I had seen these particular bolts back out on other vehicles. I'm happy with this product and really the only way I could see to make them better would be the addition of dust boots for the heim joints to keep the grit out of them for longer life.



And while upgrading the front brakes, how could I just forget about the rears. As with most cars the vast majority of the braking energy will go through the front wheels, with this in mind I decided to keep the rear brakes stock at this time but to clean them up for a nice new look. First I removed the calipers and broke them down, then I used an acid bath to clean the individual parts, hit them with a wire brush and then sprayed them with some VHT aluminum high temperature paint. How's that for a day at the spa! The end product below,



In the future, the plan is to upgrade the rear with a set of Wilwood calipers and 2 peice rotors to save weight. But this is a low priority at the moment, while other portions of the car need addressing.

Minor updates to continue in the next post...
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Old 02-21-2017, 03:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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During the brake upgrade and clean up, the brake bleeder screws were also replaced with a set of Russell Speedbleeders to help facilitate brake fluid exchanges and air purging. If your not familiar with this product they work the same as the factory bleeder screw but contain an internal ball and spring which will allow fluid/air to exit but not allow air to enter when the screw is unseated(service position). These really come in handy if you've ever had to bleed your brakes by yourself or on those last minute late night fluid changes before a track day. Cost vs. benefit, these are a no brainer!



And also while the brakes were apart, I thought it would be a good time to install some ARP extended lug studs. This product has been around for a while and really serves the purpose of giving you some extra threads in the event of a "loose wheel" incident as well as enhancing the strength of a component which will see constant removal and retorqueing. This product is straight forward and works well, its aggressive knurling at its base keeps me confident that it will not spin and the rounded business end is nice for helping to get lug nuts started.
Installation on these is a little bit more involved. The fronts are quite simple to install. Remove the brake components and then unstake and remove the 29mm nut which holds the hub to the spindle and slide the hub off. The rears are what gets complicated. Remove the brake components as with the fronts, then unstake and remove the axle nut. At this point you can remove the upper control arm-spindle nut and bolt and loosen the lower control arm-spindle nut and bolt. From here you can use a hammer to break the axle splines loose in the hub(Note-when hammering on the axle always make sure to protect the snout from mushrooming by using an old axle nut or a brass drift). Now you can swing the spindle assembly downward to a close to horizontal position, I used blocks of wood to support it in this position. At this point your going to want to find a socket or some type of arbor which will fit onto the back of the hub but be smaller than the I.D. of the inner bearing race. A couple whacks with a mini sledge and your rear hubs should be sitting on the floor(they will come with the outter half of the inner races so be sure to keep this clean and free of damage). This is a good time to remove the dust shield for the rear rotors if you wish to do so. Using a press is the best way and simplest way to remove and install the wheel studs, I honestly can't see using any other method. The press is your friend!
Assembly is the reverse of removal. The only tricky part is getting the rear hubs back in the bearings. What I did for this was to completely remove the rear spindle assembly and find an arbor or socket which would support the rear inner race(facing the axle) and place this on the ground flat. I then cleaned the hub and attached race added a shmear of bearing grease and with another socket on the flat inner portion of the hub(where the axle nut seats) and hammered her home. I also always recommend to thoroughly clean both axle and hub splines which I then coat with anti-sieze to facilitate future removal. Here's the final product,



And with Ms. MelissaDrifts at the my old job,



Stay tuned, trying to get this thing up to the present date,
-Julian
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Old 02-21-2017, 08:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Next, attention was moved to the interior. I came across the gauge cluster faces from RevLimiter.net and instantly fell in love! The attention to detail and all the different styles were amazing, I had to order a set. I settled on the Sunstorm design, mostly because it reminded me so much of the Ferrari gauge clusters with their yellow tachometers(huge Ferrari fan here). The contrast was nice and I figured it would go nice with the accents on the steering wheel I had my eyes on. So the order was placed and the unwrapping was underway shortly after.



The gauges were well packaged and was all inclusive plus more. Everything in the picture came with the gauges, including the working gloves and a couple tools to remove the factory needles, wow! These guys did a great job, I was super impressed already!

Following the instructions on the Rev Limiter website was a breeze and equally well thought out. In no time the gauge cluster was going back in and the final setting of the gauges was under way. Before and after pictures are below,





For the steering wheel I went with the Momo Mod. 88. Its flat bottom would give me some extra knee room and the suede finish was the icing on the cake. I paired this with a splined quick release and steering wheel adapter from MiataCage.com to help ease the getting in and out of the car, especially with the bucket seat. The whole set up worked out really nicely with very little slop in the quick release which was a big relief. The steering wheel can be removed without too much trouble and can actually be removed with one hand. One note if your thinking about purchasing, Miata Cage does not mention on their website that the steering wheel adapter is a necessary purchase with the quick release so plan on buying both. I got my quick release and had to wait on the adapter when I realized it wasn't going to work without it.

-Julian
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Old 02-22-2017, 11:43 AM   #9 (permalink)
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TRIMMING THE FAT OFF THE DASH

Looking at the spartan interior of my Miata, I couldn't help but feel the dash board looked a little rough around the edges. The gaping hole in the center console where the radio and HVAC controls used to be and the mounting area where it connects to the center console. After looking at different Miata interiors, I was convinced the solution started with the trusty sawz-all.



Bye, Bye center section. I also decided that I ought to clean up some of the extra wires behind the dash while I had it out. So I gutted the harness and plucked the majority of the wires from the connectors, here is what was left,



MIATA ROADSTER EXTENDED SHIFTER

Along with the dash modifications above, I had ordered a extended shifter from Bill @ MiataRoadster and it had finally come in! I chose the extended straight style in a brushed finish. Unboxing another amazing part for the build,



Packaging was superb and I loved the brushed finish on the shifter. The kit is another all inclusive affair, it even included genuine Mazda wave washer and dust boot! The installation was again straight forward with out too much trickery involved. Adam from RevLimiter.net has a great write up on his website(http://revlimiter.net/blog/2014/10/p...ort-shift-kit/) so I won't spend too much time talking about it.
I topped the shifter off with a shift knob from JoyFast Japan ordered through Rev9Autosport.com, I opted for the smallest of the bunch. The knob is nicely weighted, although it could probably use a bit more. I'm not complaining since I specifically opted for the itty-bitty version. Here's the combination below,





I have to say, this shifter is pretty amazing. The factory Miata shifter is already a joy to throw around but this shifter gives it that tight mechanical feel and has a really positive engagement going through the gates. The shift knob is a nice comfortable size for my hads as well and it just looks like a jewel on top of that shifter. I've always preferred the extended shifter is my track cars, its just a lot more comfortable when moving your hand from the wheel to shifter and I think most would agree. After driving around with this set up, I can say the shifter feel in the Miata is now better than my S2000 which is really saying something. If your in the market for a short shifter for your Miata, this is the way to go! Thanks Bill for a great product!

-Julian
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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looks good, subscribed!
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Old 02-25-2017, 08:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Right after the brake and suspension upgrades, I thought it would be good time to take her for the first spin around the track. Chuckwalla was the venue and Extreme Speed the host, a few friends from BMW San Diego came out to have fun also. Track conditions were so so, with high winds for pretty much the whole day and temperatures in the low 80's.







The car performed as expected. The track day was a little premature as far as the suspension set up is concerned and the soft S-Tech springs really held the car back just about everywhere but most noticeably in the brake-turn in transition sections and the chicanes. Surprisingly balance was pretty good with the car both understeering and oversteering at different times at the limit. The brakes also performed very well with a great solid pedal and good modulation, they certainly had enough torque to over power those weak springs. The shifter was also a joy on track, although the 2-3 shift was a bit tricky. More on that later. Overall a good baseline and its always good to confirm your starting your project on a good stable platform before you get too deep. The only casualties at the end of the day was a melted drivers tail light and melted bumper. My car has the C section of the exhaust removed(rear muffler) and apparently the exhaust gas gets trapped behind the bumper and melts things...not good. They were removed after the first session.

It was obvious by the end of the day that the next modification for the car was going to get some real springs and dampers in those wheel wells. And so the search for used Xidas began...

-Julian

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Old 02-26-2017, 12:54 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Great build so far. What pads are you running? And how were the brakes on track?
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Old 02-27-2017, 04:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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MiataMan00 - I believe the front pads are the BP20's which came with the brake kit and the rears are factory pads. The plan is to run the PFC 97's when the swap is through. At the moment the BP20's have work better than I had hoped, a very nice compromise between a track day compound and a street compound.

-Julian
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Old 02-27-2017, 04:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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As mentioned previously, the next logical upgrade had to be proper support from the suspension. I lucked out and found a nice set of Xida coilovers used with the full billet hats and Swift springs for a good deal. I jumped on them and ran up to Baldwin Park CA to pick them up. Here they are with the best parts container in the world, the US Post Office Tote!



The spring rates are 700/400 pounds respectively, with the helper springs and bearings. These look beautiful and of great quality. The machine work looks good and the finishes are on par as well. My only gripe was the lack of a dust boot for them, however I am told they have a special seal to keep crud from damaging the inner shaft seal. I'd still rather have a boot, but maybe Im just stuck in my ways.

I went about disassembling them to clean them and then came the install. Very straight forward in this department, nothing different than changing out any other shock or spring. Within an hour or 2, she was ready for a drive.

A quick note about these, the collar adjustment tool is not the typical splined wrench that most other coilovers use. This used set did not come with the wrench, I'll need to contact 949 racing for a replacement.



Wheel well starting to look the part, you can also see the 1/2" Miata Cage wheel spacer I was running on the front. This was mostly for looks and some rubbing on the coil springs I was experiencing with the Tein S-Tech set up. Luckily with the narrower springs on the coilovers this was eliminated without a need for spacers. My fenders were glad.

Initial test drive was very positive. The suspension was noticably firmer however the vehicle seemed to retain its subtlety over bumps. I've experienced many cars with the large bore piston, mono tube coilovers just crash over bumps but this was very different. Bumps didn't unsettle the car and the ride was completely tolerable. Support under braking was much improved and overall the cars reflexes were just enhanced, I couldn't wait for another track day.

-Julian

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Old 02-27-2017, 04:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ever removed a NA/NB door panel and remove the plastic "sound deadening" screen? You know that black goop that they use to hold it on? That stuff that never comes off your cloths when you accidentally get it on your shirt or pants. Well I don't have door panels and this stuff is gross! Its technical term is butyl tape, often referred to by tech's in the industry as "dumb-dumb".


EWWWWW...

I tried a couple methods to get this gunk off. Here's what I found worked, using a heat gun, heat the dumb-dumb and use a plastic scraper to scrape most of it off. When you've got the big chunks out of there you can use an adhesive removal chemical to soak in and almost melt it down, I chose Allbrite TR2 tar and adhesive remove since that's what I had access too. Worked like a charm!


Ahhh...clean doors

I used the same method to remove the sound deadening material from the floor boards which was a lot more stubborn. It took me about an afternoon to do those and I still need to take the scraper to the material on the transmission tunnel.

Stay tuned,
Julian
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Old 02-27-2017, 07:36 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

are those the gen 1 or gen2 xidas?
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Old 02-27-2017, 07:58 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

If you don't mind checking.. what length are your Swift front main springs?
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Old 02-27-2017, 09:01 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

They are Gen2 Xida's with the double digressive valving.
I'll take a peak at the installed length when I have some time to take a look. I'll see if I can get you a part number also.

-Julian
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Old 02-27-2017, 10:29 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Great. Just need length. I'm guessing 6" but still curious.
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Old 02-28-2017, 09:04 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Miata Update, Delrin Edition!

With the 2-3 shifting issues I experienced on track, I started to do some research and discovered this was a common problem with the Miata and at least partly caused by excessive drivetrain movement. Most recommended some stiffer motor mounts and if your really feeling frisky some stiffer differential bushings. I chose to upgrade both with delrin replacements from Garage Star.





Removing the engine mounts was a breeze, however installing their delrin counterparts was a bit tricky. They are quite a bit larger in diameter and use a long stud for mounting which makes things difficult. I had to raise the engine a bit more and McGuyver these things in there. The locating stud itself passes through the delrin mount and secures with a low profile nut on either end into a recessed boss. This will keep the stud from turning when tightening down each side. But because of this it was difficult for me to tighten down the nut which holds this mount onto the mount brackets on the engine. With some patience and some rubber wrists, I got it done. I just can't help but feeling there must be a better way.

The end result was incredible levels of NVH, I might even describe it as horrifying! Lol. It honestly sounded and felt like something was broken. It also seemed like if something actually did break, it would be very difficult to tell with all the shaking and noise going on. These are not for the faint of heart.

The next weekend, I pulled the hockey pucks out and installed some Mazda Competition motor mounts. Easy install, they mount up just like the factory ones. No more broken car feel! The drivetrain might not be as nailed down as they are with the delrin units, but there is no way I could live with the NVH. These Mazda Competition units offer close to stock NVH levels and a definite improvement drivetrain movement control.

Just a note; There's nothing wrong with the product(besides the fact I think that mounting could be better), it's just not for me.

Next up, the differential bushings. Again a straight forward component machined from delrin which replaces the factory units.
I start by removing the rear end, once on the ground I support the rear end in a jig using jack stands and size up a nice arbor. Next time to heat the aluminum around the bushing with a heat gun and then HAMMER TIME! The first one came out smooth, the second sent a crack through the case.





I'm starting to think these Miata rear ends just don't like me(I blew 2 in my previous NA). So a trip to my buddy Dave's garage, a little filing and were back in business.



Give the girl a little more heat and bang the new bushings in, I was able to accomplish this with my trusty dead blow instead of my mini sledge. Rear end goes back in and she's back on the road!

Initial impressions, shifting accuracy is definitely improved however the 2-3 shift is still tricky at times. I guess the rest will be up to me and my driving adjustments. I will say, the engine mounts seemed to make the biggest difference, the rear end bushings were not so noticeable. The delrin in the back did not transfer nearly as much NVH through the chassis as the engine mounts, definitely something a daily driver could live with.

-Julian
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Old 02-28-2017, 09:10 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I installed the 949 Hybrid motor mounts in my car a couple weeks ago and I love them. They are pretty gnarly at first startup but once I put about 100 miles on them they almost feel like oem. And the shifting accuracy is drastically improved. Definitely consider those when the mazda comp mounts wear out.
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Old 02-28-2017, 09:26 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Great build!

The Xida spring is a 6" when using helpers.
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Old 03-01-2017, 08:38 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Thanks.

MiataMan00, I wanted to keep the mount upgrade cheap since I'll be putting a K in it by this summer hopefully.

-Julian
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Old 03-02-2017, 10:14 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Moar Delrin!!!

Last of the delrin bits on the car is the Garage Star door bushings.
The install was straight forward minus some sanding for fitment and smoother operation. Other than that just unbolt your old bushings, bolt down your delrin pieces and your good to go!



On the test drive afterwards, I was surprised that the bushings made a surprising difference in chassis rigidity. The car feels more solid now especially over uneven bumps, it's no roll cage but for the coin these make a difference you can feel. Great product!

At some point during this whole fiasco I changed out the drivers seat to a Momo Super Cup also. I got a good deal on this seat and the Ultra Shield was just so much flimsier than the new composite seats. Also another friend of mine got into an accident with his Kirkey seat and the aftermath alone was enough to make me want to switch over. Safety first!



This is a tight seat but actually pretty comfortable, the added rigidity is a huge plus. Its super padded butt/thigh cushion is a great feature and can be easily removed for a lower and more secure position. I used a PCI seat mount to get this thing in and positioned properly, the seat mount really took the guess work out of it and made the whole thing a cinch!

Stay tuned,
Julian
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:50 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Track Day No. 2

With the coilovers in and some more subtle mods throughout the car, it was time to get back on track and see how things had changed. This time it was Streets of Willow, a track I figured would suit the car better. Conditions were pretty warm on this particular occasion temperatures in the mid to high 90's and track temperatures around the 110 mark, wind was calm for most of the day. Unfortunately no pictures from this event. The car felt much better and with much more support, braking and turn in response were super crisp and body roll was much more controlled. It was evident at this event that the Z214 tires the car was wearing were old and tired. Mid day I had a huge lock up going into turn 2(clockwise) and just plowed right off the track and through out the day the rear tires were struggling for traction especially out of the skid pad. You know its bad when your over powering your rear tires in a Miata
Overall the day was positive, the car was working much better and felt really good in my hands. The build is moving in the right direction and is really close to the point were the motor will come into play.

After the track day, I decided to throw on some old Toyo RA1's on the car which I had laying around. These things have so much more grip! I figure after a couple track days these will be toast and it'll be time to switch to a new R compound and quit messing around with these take offs. So with some squishy rubber on the car and the sun in the sky it was off to Glendora Mountain Road for some back road fun!



I almost forgot how good a Miata felt on GMR, they go together likes cookies and milk!

Stay tuned,
-Julian
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Old 03-11-2017, 11:01 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Gender Rollin' Time!

Ever since I switch over to the Toyo RA1's the front tires rubbed on both the outter fender lip and the inner chassis. Unfortunately the RA1's I had swapped on were a 225/50/15 instead of the previous 225/45/15 z214(which did not rub). So it was time to break out the Eastwood fender roller and start rollin'!


Picture me Rollin'...

The Eastwood fender roller has done me justice over the life of its service, but after about 28 rolled fenders the castle nut on the back of the tension adjuster had stripped and the threads on the shaft along with them. Luckily as a temporary fix I was able to use a roll pin and the old castle nut to get the job done. I'll have to get a replacement from Eastwood for next time.

With the fenders rolled the rubbing has been reduced but not completely eliminated. Hopefully switching to the 225/45/15 will help but I think ultimately moving to a slightly wider fender would be best. Then I could space it and get rid of the rubbing on the inner chassis.

Stay tuned,
Julian
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Old 03-11-2017, 11:06 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Here's one from Mt. Laguna. It was a little brisk without the top(or heater..)



-Julian
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Old 03-14-2017, 05:48 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

Dr. D.R.E. Sequential Shift Light Install

One day, I found this little guy laying around on my work bench,



Yet another relic from the old CR-X track car. I've mentioned it enough, so I ought to throw a picture in.



This little shift light has done me service since about 2008 and has always worked great. Its programmable to work in a number of different ways(when the LED's start to come on, how fast they move, flashing, etc.) and programmable up to 20,000 RPM. All this in a very small compact package! On to the install...



First, a snip of the upper steering column cover to allow the wires to come through out of plain view. I then chose to route the wires over the steering column and secure them with 2 zip ties. They then feed into the cluster wiring area where excess length has been looped and secured and wires have been terminated via the method below,





Difficult to get a good shot of this but the pins in the connectors of the gauge cluster have an extra and unused crimp which is typically used for a weather proofing seal. I used this crimp to attach the small wires from the shift light and finessed them back into the connector. It's tight, but they do fit and wind up giving you a nice and clean look for the install. All the light needs is a clean power source, good ground and tachometer signal. All of which is available at the back of the gauge cluster for simplified and local wiring. All crimped up and ready to go!





After almost 10 years of service, the light still works like day 1. Without the top its not quite as bright as I'd like it to be but should get the job done. I'll come up with a final verdict on the next track day.

Stay tuned,
Julian
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Old 03-16-2017, 11:38 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

What model is it?


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Old 03-18-2017, 11:44 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Default Re: 99 Miata HPDE build

it's about time you paint that rusty dashboard frame!!! slacker!!!
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