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Project Rotrex NA

34K views 151 replies 39 participants last post by  Shaq_R 
#1 · (Edited)


Well after a first year doing Solosprint (Canadian Time Trials stuff), I've gotten the bug an need more power. :lol: 191whp was fun for a while. I just dropped my shortblock off with Ocean @ Chikara along with my Supertech pistons, rods and will be working his Ocean magic doing the following. I would have loved to get some Mahle Maruha pistons, but the budget did not allow :(.

light deck
bore .040 over
balance crank
balance rotating assembly
assemble short block
remove oil injectors
Install Ocean's magicall oil pump good for high RPMs

All said and done the bottom end will be capable of 8000+ RPM. Static compression ratio will be around 9.5:1 - 9.6:1. All depending on how much material has to be taken off of the head.

I also dropped off my head there as well. Turns out it needs a bit of love but nothing that this guy can't fix. So I will be going with OS SS valves (the head is already heavily ported), 94-97 BP springs, new copper valve guides, new valve seals and assembly. It will also be getting a slight shave to clean up the mating surface and smoothing of the combustion chambers. I have yet to decide to stay with hydraulic lifters or go with the Mazdaspeed solid SUB lifters. The hydraulic lifters are only good for around 7500RPM, and the SUB can go well past 8000RPM and see gains with proper cams. That will be decided at a future date and I have to figure out if it's allowed for my racing class.

Now for a power adder for my dinky 1.6L 16v DOHC I will be getting one of these


With the higher comp engine and the C30-74 Rotrex charger the engine should be somewhere in the 280-300whp mark with a nice powerband thanks to this thing I just picked up from Levinubhin...

Honda Blox B16 manifold mated to a Miata B6 flange :D... (and yes... it's port matched inside where the two parts are welded together)

This is the kind of powerband I am hoping for. This is with a C30-94 at a lower PSI, so the 74 will be run at a slightly higher PSI and should produce a bit more power under the curve.


This is going to be a long and slow winter build and I will update with photos and more information along the way :D

My car for refrence....

1990 White NA
180,000kms
Bilstien HD w/ sleeves and 550/350
RB hollow front bar, stock rear
15x7 +35 w/ A032R (for now)
Hard Dog Single Diag
Momo Acropolis Seat on custom rail mounted LOW
Maruha 2 way diff
Megasquirt MS1
Plans for the future include 6UL's, revalved shocks and R888's.

Me at Knox Mtn Hill Climb last year with the GReddy turbo kit (with a slipping clutch... see if you can hear it ;))


Tuning... power was fun, it had a bit of an exhaust leak and a cat which robbed some power, but at 10PSI I was happy. I WAS going to fix the leak and remove the cat and tune for 15PSI but my stock head started showing it's age with a lot of oil consumptions (valve seals) and lifter tick.... so what better than going all out!





 
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#86 ·
:p

Oh, and I did my fuel pump today as well and added a dedicated 30A relay. Aeromotive FPR will go on tommorow. The FPR adapter is sitting in Blaine waiting for me to pick it up.

Then it's finish the IC piping, make some plug wires from the kit I bought and it's off to they dyno.
 
#91 ·
It was just on for mock up purposes before. I'm still driving the car right now and don't want it on there until it's actually being used

Awesome setup!, I want videos too. Any info on the catch can?
Ebay awesomeness right there. No vids yet, it should be tuned next week.

What happened to your Honda/Miata intake manifold?? It's back to just Miata

edit: oops, guess it always was lol. Did you ditch the idea?
Decided to stick with stock for now, then I am going to either get the BEGi one if they ever finish it or have a custom one made from alum.
 
#93 ·
Finally got my centers back. One wheel down, three to go. After the powdercoater failed mistarably at the white coating (dirt flecks etc.) not once but TWICE, I decided to go back to gold. Tried and true combo on a red NA. Hand polished lips (never doing that again) and hand polished bolts.

 
#101 ·
Just haven't gotten there yet. There is so much to do. I'm just wrapping it for now. I don't have a metal brake to make a nice heat sheild. Perhaps later in the season. The wrap should be sufficient for now.

Also... finished the IC piping today and the oil cooler mounting. Got to get a few AN fittings for the FPR and some extra hose for the Rotrex oil system and then I am ready to hit the dyno.




 
#102 ·
So everything is ready for the dyno. Drove about 80k last night to break the Rotrex in, letting it blow into nothing. Took a couple pics of where I mounted everything for anyone else in the future doing a DIY install.

Resivor


Filter


Line Routing







IC Mounting (metal plate across top, and just two simple "L" brackets from Home Depot)



Oil Cooler Mounting (mounted on top of the bar supporting the IC)


Also wrapped the header yesterday. Did a trick I was once told, and that is to wrap it when wet. Makes it conform a lot better and tighten even more onto the header when you fire it up.
 
#104 ·
EDIT: Nevermind. I scrolled up to see where your catch can is. Duh.

You should look into the TDR exhaust manifold blanket. It's awesome-efficient. I'm sure there are others that are equally as effective. I had it on my hotside MP62 setup and you could practically touch it bare-handed after a hard run.

Why didn't you mount the ignition coils on the cold side? They're obviously effected by heat as are all electronics. If you were making your own leads, putting them on the cold side would have been a cinch.

And pardon my noobishness...but what is the air filter in front of the water pump pulley for?
 
#105 ·
EDIT: Nevermind. I scrolled up to see where your catch can is. Duh.

I still have to figure out a new place for it because my FPR is now mounted there...


You should look into the TDR exhaust manifold blanket. It's awesome-efficient. I'm sure there are others that are equally as effective. I had it on my hotside MP62 setup and you could practically touch it bare-handed after a hard run.

That's the plan, but I needed something to keep the heat down for now. I have tuning tomorrow and a race next weekend. And no money.

Why didn't you mount the ignition coils on the cold side? They're obviously effected by heat as are all electronics. If you were making your own leads, putting them on the cold side would have been a cinch.

Tried playing around with different spots but I wanted to keep the leads short and if I wanted to keep them as close as they are, there was no spot on the cold side to mount them. I can always play around with them. The leads are long enough that I might be able to swap it over but for now it's fine. They don't get any hotter than they would have on an LS2 being mounted next to the header.

And pardon my noobishness...but what is the air filter in front of the water pump pulley for?

It's still running N/A. That's my intake filter. The Rotrex is just dumping the air.
 
#110 ·
So I just got home from the dyno session. Car is tuned, and runs very well although it was a bit lower than what I had hoped for. But that is mainly due to the lower boost level. The car was tuned on a Dynapack which supposed reads a bit lower, but at the end of the day the car rips pretty good and I'm content... for now. Here is what I have for graphs.






A few things come to mind on what I can do to make some more power and the first on the list is an intake manifold and larger throttle body. Also, water injection and possibly spinning the Rotrex up a bit more to get the same 14PSI at 7000RPM instead of 8000RPM.

I'm also worried a bit about the pulley on the Rotrex. I was sent a 8 rib pulley because that's all they had for a 115mm size but the belt jumps around above 6.5k or so. I'll post a vid. Going to see what I can figure out with Kraftwerks because I don't think this is good for belt life especially on a car that will see a lot of track time above 6.5K RPM.

I think going with the larger pulley for a higher RPM which I will rarely see (don't plan to run it to 8k unless I need some extra RPMS for AutoX or something) hurt the power output a bit and I may just decide to lower the RPM and run a smaller pulley especially with the fact that the current pulley is not a 4 rib pulley.
 
#111 ·
after doing a bit more reading the only other 1.6L I can find is this 4AGE that ran the 94. He only made 14PSI too but at 7200RPM rather than my 8000RPM and made 267whp. I may just run a smaller pulley (I can run 105mm and still redline at 7400RPM without overspinning) and I should be able to pick up some power everywhere. If I redline the blower at 7400RPM I think I should pick up 1 or 2 PSI at that RPM maybe hitting 15-16psi if I'm lucky. If I add an intake manifold it should help even more.

Vid of the 4AGE.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPIaXDlExaE


And a vid from today.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCuob_oYtKg
 
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