rapinatore

lots of pictures!!

So i bought my 97 miata off craigslist from a guy on here who lives in miami fl(i live in ny). Paid to have it shipped because the tires were on threads. Overall a very stressful situation and I probably wouldn't do it again. Next time I'll fly and drive back or else buy local, lol. So here is an overview of the car when i bought it:

Car + Shipping ran me roughly $2500.






kitty approved






Good:
-hardtop (been repainted so needs to be stripped and painted properly)
-raceland suspension
-koyo radiator
-upper front strut bar (ebay?)
-kenwood deck and pioneer door speakers (not too bad but not my taste)
-NB 14x6 rims (very lightweight but not big enough for me, probably paint and someday buy new and use these for winter)
-only cancer is in the kick panel of the front fenders! gotta love florida cars
-timing belt recently done (at 130k now)
-rolled and pulled fenders (poorly done but not bad)

Bad:
-pass headlight motor works but doesn't move light up/down
-frame rails flattened
-hood and driver's fender been replaced and not aligned so rubbing everywhere
-steering wheel is fubar
-tires bald with threads showing
-alignment not even close
-paint,paint... paint, (it needs paint)
-pass marker signal is busted
-exhaust has straight pipe (throwing engine code for cat) and there is at least one light exhaust leak rusty stock exhaust
-valve cover gasket leaks even though it was recently replaced
-front pass brake caliper is holding up a little making the car pull to the right

Overall I'm pretty happy about the car

Obviously tires and alignment are the first concern. Had to find a ancient hot rod garage that does alignments on a flat rack by hand to do it. $70 and the front is perfect, mechanic says stock on the rear should be 1 degree the best he could get was 2 degrees. Front hub to fender is 11.5" rear 12".

alignment shop

new rubber


For tires I did Falken Ziex 912's 195/60R14. A little high profile for my taste but for now it was the only thing i found affordable all season and i've heard good things about them.

The kid who sold it to me did send me a used cat and a new set of signal markers. I'm selling the signal markers on here so I can grab a set of smoked lenses of ebay. The cat has bolts rusted onto the flanges at both ends and I do beleive my exhaust is rusted together as well. I will let the garage fight with all the rust before they do the inspection.

taught the wife to drive


This week i plan to get the wife dirty and get the fender and hood aligned properly (she agreed to help if i go running with her... we shall see). Also i'll dig into the pass headlight assembly maybe make a write up about the headlights though it looks to be overly simple assembly.

BAD NEWS: Today i decided i would spray the belts with some anti-squeak belt junk. I had it laying around and never tried it before and the brand new belts do squeak when the car starts. I started the car and sprayed the belts being careful not to spray the alternator or other stuff. Roughly 30 seconds after I did this a horrible chattering noise started. Sounds very similar to the chatter of manual valve lifters but louder and inconsistant. The noise does increase with increased rpm's. I tried turning the a/c compressor on and off to see if that was the cause of the noise and no change. The noise is terrible and freaking me out, so i didn't drive it to work. I plan to let my mechanic look at it tomorrow if he is free, but any theories are welcome. I can only isolate the noise to be coming from the front of the engine bay. I don't feel and unusual vibrations in the motor(using the screwdriver to ear test) but it still makes me nervous that something more serious could be wrong.

**Disclaimer** I grew up surrounded by ricer's and watching 'Fake and the Furious' so i do have ricey tendencies. Also I am not in a miata for speed because for the money it would take to get my miata to keep up with my little Ninja 500r I could buy a second miata and second bike, lol. I just want a car that is as fun as the bike for those days i want to be lazy/dry or listen to the stereo.

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sidvv

Cool car. Lookin forward to see what you do with it.

Bryan

Looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you. Good luck!

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rapinatore

thanks guys! limited budget but most of it is little stuff so if I settle for ebay parts where I can it should go along nicely!

when I got home from work this morn I started the car to check on the clattering noise and it was gone! but instead there is a nice loud whine/squeal noise so I'm leaning towards a bad alternator.....

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rapinatore

Alternator: turns out the alternator is indeed bad and making much noise so I will be ordering one shortly.

Radiator: thank god this is a koyo racing radiator because when it dropped to 14° the florida radiator coolant froze. I've never had that happen before but almost every car I've had has cooling issues! At 20° outside yesterday morning the car overheated yet the heater inside the car was blowing ice cold and immediately after turning off the car the coolant temperature plummeted. I couldn't get to the radiator drain so go go gadget ghetto car lift (scrap wood)!


Fortunately nothing cracked or split but it was still to cold out for a garden hose so I filled three cat litter buckets with water and flushed my radiator and put the proper mixture of antifreeze and water in.

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rapinatore

I have been creating a mental list of all the little parts I am going to grab off one of he the many part outs on here but it is getting too long for my brain:

oil dipstick
pass headlight motor
both door switches
valve cover bolts
trunk carpet/plastic
alternator
shift knob (direct thread on)
shift boot mint condition

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sr20det_28

nice save, this car was'nt going in the right direction -_-

rapinatore

^ lol so I'm not the only one that noticed that? haha I understand ignorant people neglecting their car but the previous owner had money and this borders abuse!. I'm glad to fix it this car is still plenty alive!

transmission: so I've noticed second gear grinds when you redline first is this common? and anything besides some synchro mesh I can do to prolong the life of this tranny? heavier fluid maybe?

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rapinatore

windows: so as per a few members it seemed like an easy and cheap project to grease my window cranks. Much longer and my wife's arms would have been bigger than mine as the pass was horrible to roll up and down. I began taking apart the window assembly without any problems took 20 ish min to completely disassemble slowly. WARNING do not take apart the actual crank itself! lol i did this... and then took apart the other side to try and get an idea how to fix the first... now both my manual cranks are useless and i spent 3hours on my day off pissed and miserable, lol. There couldn't be a better time to go power! I am waiting on regulators from a member fro $150 shipped to convert my windows to power! Meanwhile i have the windows ziptied 95% of the way up and it has been raining for the last three days.... I left my doors apart all ready for the regulators.

door panels: so i've seen tons of people refinish their door panels and the fiber board backing is shot on mine, swollen broken, and bent. So i'm off to ebay to find some new vinyl and I will be using 1/4" wall paneling as my backing

Earlier I had posted about several parts i wanted well here is the current shopping list i have from two members here:

gitrplaya1:
pass headlight motor w/ linkage arm
oil dipstick
headlight motor black arm
both door ajar switches
valve cover bolts
alternator
oem shift knob
aftermarket shift knob
shift boot
visors
power window switch
clear dome light cover
leather steering wheel
lug nuts

TylerT84:
power window regulators

This will most definitely leave me with plenty to do for a few weeks, and the wife has agreed to help and take pics for a few of the projects!

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rapinatore

Two months ago was my wife's and i one year anniversary of first dating, lol. Yeah i know we are 4 months married so such things don't seem quite as important but sooo much has happened for us in the last year we wanted to celebrate it. I took her 2hrs out of town to a 'paint your own pottery' place (to later find out there was one in the town we live it) and also took her to a weird but very highly rated restaurant. (i'm not the artsy type) but i love tinkering and projects so I thought it would be cool...

The result is a dish for our dog Butters(yes, southpark) and a dish for my keys:





YAY! for progress! since waiting for shipping is torture I went to home depot and purchased several cans of plastidip and $1 flat black spray paint

Plastidip: my plan was to revive my semi-ugly NB rims by painting them flat black. The plastidip thread showed pics of some guy using playing cards as a method for taping off the tire.




Two problems with that, one is wind, wind is controlled by the devil and is only blows 50mph on spray paint days, lol. Problem two is that you should paint your tires in plastidip! Yes that's crazy but it's not! I've seen people paint their tires w/ clear coat in order to preserve that 'new tire' finish but it cracks and looks terrible eventually but what about plastidip? wouldn't it be able to withstand the flexing tire? Well i started not painting the outside of the tire so i stuck to it the rest of the way around but i did paint the inside of the tire and it looks like the tire is brand new! on the inside.. lol. So the next time i take the wheels off I will add an update on whether or not it still looks awesome or if it cracks.

Quickly sanded the center caps with a medium grit sheetrock mud sanding sponge and cleaned and sprayed




Since plastidip is so very easy to spray i used it as a great chance to teach the wife how to rattle can



but i had to take it away when she got carried away and wanted to paint Butters



unfinished rims:



finished rims:



I was having too much fun and took the antenna and wiper arms off as well.


so everything got 2.5 to 3 coats of plastidip and one or two coats of cheap flat black paint and after doing 4 rims, two wiper arms, and one antenna i only went thro two and a half cans of plastidip and 1.5 cans of flat black.


Next project hint:

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ThatWhiteNA

The wheels look sweet! You've certainly got a lot of turd polishing ahead of you, but you're doing good so far! I would change the coolant, diff and gearbox fluids next.

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rapinatore

thx!
I agree but I'm waiting until I pick up some ramps I don't feel safe under the car while its on a pile of wood lol.

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ThatWhiteNA

You have jack stands next to your car in one of your pictures. Use those.

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rapinatore

I do but I have to use the boards to get it high enough to get the jack underneath then the stands but its still got one tire in the wood it was shifting and teetering in those pictures lol one of the problems with small cars you jack up one corner and it can't decide which way its wants to lean. Not to say I can't do it just would rather be safer.

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ThatWhiteNA

Fair point. I just noticed how tall your jack pad is. I have the Harbor Freight jack which is pretty low friendly, so I just assume sometimes.

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rapinatore

for now I will get ramps but eventually I would love to invest in a low profile jack

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rapinatore

made another purchase from TylerT84 <- great seller great prices fast shipping

connecting wires from door regulators to the dash
radiator reservoir cap
coolant hoses (one of mine is split and leaking)

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TylerT84

Wow great progress. Cars looking good. How cool to have your wife help with the project. If only i could get my girlfriend to do the same.

rapinatore

Thanks! kind of inteimidated by all the crazy nice and expensive cars on here doing a full overhaul and what not but right now i just want to the car to not appear as a 20 yr old beater, lol.

As for my wife yeah it means the world to me that she is willing to get involved even if lightly. Dating is like doing donuts in snow, marriage like competitive drifting. So if she won't help now she won't ever help...

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rapinatore

paint: once it gets warmer i'll be spray bombing the car flat black. After that only my skill and the collective imagination of CR is the limit I started an idea thread here:http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/sho...990#post856990

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rapinatore

Today i find this on my doorstep:


YAY!!!! the parts from gitrplaya1 finally arrived! He warned me the packaging was a little... inventive

56.2 minutes of cutting through tape, cellophane, bubble wrap, saran wrap, tape, bubble wrap, etc. i see something!


Finally all of this sits on the floor of my living room, it's like a junk yard christmas


Choices... choices... well it's raining, and has been for two days, so i should do something inside the car, lol, but it's supposed to keep raining for three more days so i decided to get cold and wet and fix the headlight instead.

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rapinatore

Headlight: A while back i started a thread asking about a headlight walkthrough, and most people just said wtf it's just a molex and a few bolts? This is mostly true 95% of the entire headlight assembly is absolutely cake (even in the miserable rain at 40 degrees). However that last 5% sucks ass. In my car the previous owner had replaced the plastic bushing on the connecting arm for the headlight motor with a washer covered in copious amounts of silicone to keep it all in place, it sort of actually worked, lol. Seeing as the gearbox within the motor was fubar this no longer mattered. I attempted to replace the bushing....

This is the knuckle on the headlight side of the connecting arm:


How this works is you (1) first place the connecting rod over the knuckle (2)then you gently force the plastic 'bushing' (i expect bushings to be firm but flexible not brittle and hard as rock) onto the knuckle, (3)then you pull the connecting arm back off the knuckle while keeping the bushing in place.

The idea is that the connecting rod snaps onto the bushing pinching the bushing onto the knuckle and connecting the connecting rod to the knuckle. Great! finished...




oh shit the brittle bushing just snapped, now what? fml that's what. I went and got the super glue so i held the connecting rod onto the bushing and some very light dabs of superglue and three tries later it held! Fortunately it doesn't take much force to hold the rod onto the bushing as the lateral force is very minimal, the main force be exerted on the bushing is parallel to the connecting rod.

End product:


Now my pictures are from very unnatural angles so don't expect to see things from my pov. As it was raining (down pouring whenever my feet were off the porch) I ripped the entire assembly out and brought it inside to work on while i sat on the heater vent to dry off my soggy ass.

Installation was just as simple as removal and it was raining much too hard to have my cell phone out taking pictures. But one note: always unplug the motor first/last because even with the car off the motor will want the light in the lowered position so it may move on it's own putting considerable pressure on whatever might be in it's way, lol. Also don't be afraid to over-disassemble to make things easier to see and get too because it's all very easy to take apart/put back together.

YAY!! for headlights! (after a month i finally get to throw away the stick i had propping up the pass headlight)

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amptramp

I am sure someone will propose using adjustable heim-jointed swaybar endlinks for this purpose...

rapinatore

I'm curious if someone already has? How many years can this old brittle plastic last? I can easily see a north eastern 1990 NA having the bushings fall apart. Currently this is all i could find for replacement but not sure if it comes with both bushings or none:

http://www.finishlineperformance.com./store/product.php?productid=16487&cat=323&page=2


Windshield wipers: I risked the $ and bought two rain-x wannabe ebay wipers from china for $15 shipped. All in all it seems they are worth the money, they have a huge ridge across the top that i assume will work wonders for pushing the snow off the windshield on those lazy days i don't brush it off. And the build quality looks just fine to me although the plastic used for the clips seems quite flexible compared to normal wipers. (saving the old wipers just in case these fall off)


the company that makes them is called... "Rainbow" but hey at least they have a brand name unlike most ebay stuff

i got two for the wife's caliber as well:


the weird thing is that you pinch the side's to pull up the locking peice:



Random parts: i put more of the small random parts on

Taking off the center console i found that my shifter dirt boot is gone and i already knew the bushing was a little worn so a short shift kit and dirt boot are on my to do list...


shift knob and shift boot: got a aftermarket shift knob as well so i'll be testing to compare both and see which i like, but the 'new old' shift knob is in much better shape if quite a bit dirtier, and the shift boot only has one rip compared to 4+

before and after:




Center console lid: mine was cracked 'new old' one is perfect!

before and after:



Steering wheel: Mine was in horrible shape, the entire top half was loose spinning very freely and a 2 inch chunk was missing, the previous owner had put a too big cover over it to make it usable but that was dangerous as it spun around the wheel. Soo, i put the cover on my wife's caliber and put the 'new old' factory leather steering wheel on. I was a little sad that the steering wheel wasn't in better shape but i paid very little for it so i'll go to walmart and get the vinyl wrap and i'll be happy. I love the feel of the skinny wheel.

before:


after:


Sun Visor: My wife has to have a mirror and i often forget my sunglasses so I got these visors in 8 out of 10 shape to put in.

before and after:


p.s. taking two pictures from the same angle without a mounted camera is quite tricky, lol

Door ajar switches: Mine had been disassembled which made it difficult to see at night so i bought new ones and temporarily disconnected my buzzer until i can rewire it to buzz at the right times Fortunately whoever did it did not mangle everything they simply pulled it apart so I was able to splice the old wire to the new connector, very painless. To access the wire all i had to do was take off the door sill and the rubber gasket that runs along the door trim. The interior plastic door trim then could be pulled back enough to squeeze my hand in and find the wire without removing the entire trim piece.

before and after:



last but not least is spring cleaning! I found some old checks from a bank account that i still have open but do not use and ripping/cutting them in half seemed too boring. A little flame and some wd-40 (my wife's idea!) took care of it! Flames got pretty high before all the checks had gotten sufficiently singed!

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rapinatore

Car ramps! Being that i'm not rich like some of you crazy roadster owners I had to find a cheap alternative to a $300 low profile jack. However, the stacked wood on uneven pavement doesn't make me feel safe as the car rocks when the wind blows. Craigslist to save the day rusty car ramps for $20 quickly sanded and painted to slow corrosion and we are all set!



Meanwhile I have been doing a few larger projects.

Power window conversion: I have finished my manual to power window conversion with a painstakingly detailed Write-up here. I went looking for a guide hoping for an easy answer but alas no one had yet done one so enjoy! As many have stated the power windows are slow, slower than any other vehicle i've been in. I used lots of white lithium spray grease and adjusted the glass mounting as well as the center guide mounting to help everything move more freely and i'm very pleased. Without getting a cramp i couldn't roll up the window with a crank any faster than the motor moves the window. In the future I would like to to the auto window switch mod. Anyone have a good write up on this please post it here!

Auto door unlock: I read about a few different methods of fixing the auto door unlock problem. For those who are blessed and haven't encountered this: I'm sitting in my car, open the door, lock the door, get out, and close the door. When the door closes it pops the locking mechanism unlocking the door. The only way around this was to hold the door handle open while closing the door. I fixed it my locks and revised an old write up from miata.net adding pictures! Here's the link!
Again i covered everything in grease, i love this shit, along with the door hinges and everything feels so smooth and newish it's quite nice. Car may look horrible but it feeeels great.

I also spent my next few weeks of extra money ahead of time and made a small purchase from Flyn' Miata This will be my first official 'upgrade' done to the car!! Everything to this point has been maintenance or repair so i'm very excited!

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rapinatore

Shifter: ordered a short shifter kit along with a full set of oem bushings and both rubber boots to do a full shifter rebuild, will update when parts arrive!

engine belts: FML shoot me in the head and revive me to enjoy the pain, lol. I have been putting off installing my lightly used alternator since one of my belts was squeaking as i posted far up above. When i sprayed some anti-belt squeak on the belts a horrible chattering noise started and gradually went away after a day or two. since then the squeak has gotten worse every time i start the car and sometimes when i shift i hear a faint squeak as well. Well 10K miles ago the timing belt and water pump were replaced so that eliminates that. I replaced the alternator and it still squeaks so all that is left is the PS and AC so fvck it i depowered the rack and removed the ac!

PS and AC removed! Very inimidated at first on doing this but overall it was one of the easiest mods i've done. Many people online looped their power steering rack using plugs and hoses i simply cut the high pressure line coming off the pump and clamped that onto the fitting on the rack for the return line back to the pump. I haven't driven the car like this yet but i can one hand the steering wheel with the car sitting still so i'm very excited to drive it and compare. Being in the north east i don't need ac especially after my power window upgrade.

No it didn't fix the belt squeak. Now i'm really lost, there are only three things connected to this one and only belt on the motor, water pump, crank, and alternator. The valve cover seal was also replaced when the water pump was done and the valve cover is missing a bolt and leaks about 70% of the way around it so I don't trust whatever mechanic the previous owner had do the water pump/timing belt/vavle cover job. But i just replaced the alternator and the belt looks new! Any input is apprecaited but here is my plan. New belt first and foremost just to elminate the easiest solution. If that doesn't work then I'll be replacing the water pump. I'm really hoping i can get this fixed quickly-er but it's already taken much longer than i expected.

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amptramp

How tight is the belt? Loose = squeak. Tight can also squeak if the adjuster for the alternator is tightened enough to pull the alternator pulley in on an angle. And if it is a new alternator, are the bearings OK?

rapinatore

it was quite tight before, i loosened it up per suggestion by my mechanic but it squeaks the same.

It seems the bearings on both old and new alternator are just fine no play at all but i can feel a ridiculously tiny amount of side to side play in the water pump pulley. And all three spin smoothly with no binding or grinding.

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rapinatore

squeaky belt: put on a 3yr warranty belt and it still squeaked. tightened the belt a little less squeak. tightened the belt a lot! and the squeak went away so hopefully this is the end all be all fix! after all that time...

Valve cover: The previous owner apparently didn't like the factory finish and managed to not only ruin the valve cover gasket but make the valve cover look like shit too, lol. The blue paint was flaking off badly and the gasket was leaking. I bought a lifetime warranty gasket and sanded off most of the blue paint and painted the valve cover flat black. I don't have the time, energy, and money to send it out to be sandblasted and then paint it properly. I figure this way whatever dirt and grime or paint chips show up it will all mesh without being too noticable and touch ups on the paint will be very easy.

Spark plugs and wires: Tried to replace the plugs and the wire fell apart leaving the rubber boot stuck on top of two spark plugs.. this was frustrating but with the valve cover off i was able to get pliers on the second rubber boot. In the end I replaced the plugs with NGK v-power plugs and Blue NGK wires! I also plastidipped my strut bar and painted it a nice rustoleum enamel blue.
Before:

After:


FM frame rails: This is an easy install but preparation was miserable. My rails were very bad and i was massaging them in my driveway with the car only 10" off the ground. 2 or 3 hours with an 8 inch c-clamp and a demolition hammer i was finally able to force both frame rails on. My 97' had the ecu behind the pass seat so there were no worries about drilling into anything. Once installed I went back with cheap rubberized underbody spray and touched up the underbody spray already on the car along with hitting all the holes i made in the floor inside the car and underneath. Result: my front two tires were on ramps and the driver rear was held up by one jack stand 10 to 12 inches off the ground. Before the frame rails the pass rear tire touched the ground and the driver front suspension mostly unloaded but still kept contact on the ramp. After the frame rails the pass rear wheel did not touch the ground at all and the front driver corner of the car stayed only lifted slightly.

After driving it extremely hard on some terrible anti-miata back roads I can simply say the difference is a beat up old uni-body car w/o the fm rails and a brand new unmolested car with them. Also the hard top bounces around a squeaks much much less now. I can actually tell what is making noise where, lol.


Body work: being lazy and short on spare time I haven't even started prepping the body for paint instead I painted my headlight housings




Here is the huge hole where the PS and A/C belonged. The steering definitely took a few days to get used to. At first i was very skeptical because it is very stiff. I can't get over the responsiveness though, it's amazing the feeling of touching the road with your hands when holding the steering wheel.


Shifter parts came in along with some led's for my dash update soon.

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Short Throw Shifter: I wanted to have this project actually last and not feel crappy so after ordering the cheap ebay short throw shifter I then ordered oem bushings from onlinemazdaparts.com (<- cheapest place for oem parts online). Here is what i ordered:

ebay short throw shifter
two rubber boots
onlinemazdaparts.com for these parts:
1 - 0398-17-462A Lower cup bushing (for lower ball on shifter)
1 - M501-17-515 Anti Rotation Bushing (for the groove on the shifter pivot)
2 - 9996-33-130 spacer washers (1 on each side of the white plastic bushings)
2 - M505-17-482 wave washers (1 on each side of the white plastic bushings)
2 - M501-17-481 bushings (the 2 halves of the bushing around the pivot ball)

The problem with all of this is that the short throw shifter kit was not designed to use all of the oem bushings so below I have stolen two random pictures off the net to be able to pick out which parts i used. This list is in the order in which they are installed as well!

-Item #4- 0398-17-462A Lower cup bushing (for lower ball on shifter)
-Item #5- This is the spacer that takes up the space where the two pivot ball bushings would go
-Not Pictured- paper gasket that came with the oem lower rubber boot
-Not Pictured- 9996-33-130 spacer washer
-Item #2- M505-17-482 wave washer
-Item #3- M501-17-481 bushing
-Item #1- This is the new collar that holds the pivot ball and pin to keep shift lever from spinning
-Not Pictured- M501-17-515 Anti Rotation Bushing (for the groove on the shifter pivot)
-Item #3- M501-17-481 bushing
-Item #2- M505-17-482 wave washer
-Not Pictured- 9996-33-130 spacer washer
- OEM lower rubber boot
- 3 bolts with washers and lock washers which came with ebay short throw kit. these are longer than factory obviously to reach through the extension collar. I replaced mine with higher grade steel bolts because the ebay ones were very cheap.
-Not Pictured- Upper rubber boot 'cap' from rubber boot kit from ebay

I did not use:
-Item #6- Flat spacer. Without this you are able to use the lower bushing which would not fit with it installed.





I very well may have installed these 'wrong' but after many different tries this seemed to make the most sense and feels just fine sitting in the driveway (haven't test drove it yet).

I also used 5w30 for my turret instead of tranny fluid. I did not fill it all the way to the top but it is above the level of the lower ball/bushing.

Will do a review shortly!

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