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Old 03-06-2016, 09:39 AM   #481 (permalink)
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Did this instead on my build. Block lives under T3 adapter. 8 bucks. Very few places to potentially leak, few fittings are active, all are sealed. The four open ports are where I drilled new 1/8 inch holes thru the manifold (already silicone glued on) and the adapter. Been bulletproof. Of course I am running MAF / Stock ECU / piggy so it ran from first key, drove it minutes later. Not sure why so many do ITB installs in such an expensive and complicated manner but it's fun I guess.

Bottom view 1


Bottom view 2


Top view...small nipple comes out on rhs, the front for FPR, large one to rear for brake booster. Tee or use other nipples for other needs, plenum has fittings for PCV etc.
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Old 03-06-2016, 05:51 PM   #482 (permalink)
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I was close to doing it the same as yours, but didn't like the idea of using adhesive to hold it to the manifold.

And the fittings I used can be bought for under $10usd for 5. And the local fittings shop gave me a foot of hose for free.

These fittings are reliable too, friend uses them at work in the machines they build, he actually gave me the idea of using them.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...132980&alt=web
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:10 AM   #483 (permalink)
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I follow you on instagram so it was great finding this. It's amazing all of the work you put into this. Your car is awesome and is a great example of what well spent time can do for a car.

Keep doing what you're doing, cause it's awesome. O(≧▽≦)O

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Old 03-07-2016, 01:17 PM   #484 (permalink)
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Gawd that vacuum setup is nice. So much less clutter than running individual hoses off each runner.

Fantastic work as always!
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:51 PM   #485 (permalink)
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omgpham.com - http://omgpham.com/thats-not-a-mod

New update time.

First off, I won the People's Choice Award at the 2016 All Japanese Day. So happy!



A few small updates to the interior.



Push button start installed in the factory cigarette port, Jass Performance shifter boot, and my new Hazard Switch Kit.




This was a custom turned part my friend made for me. It's pretty much a quick connect fitting into a barb adapter. And it's used for my temporary idling setup.



Had this piece laser cut out of aluminium to mount the modification and build plates.



I also managed to install the Pipercross C604D air filter. The adapter plate was a custom one and the filter is offset towards the front of the car by 10mm, this was done to clear the clutch master cylinder and reservoir.




And there's very little clearance, so I need to find a more compact clutch master and reservoir solution soon.




I've had side skirts on my car in the past, but I removed them because they always seems to go wavey after awhile. This was using the skirts made from ABS plastic, but I'm pretty sure the polyurethane ones will do the same. Fibreglass ones should never go wavey, but the fibreglass ones I bought ages ago were wavey out of the box. It seemed like they were moulded off a set of wavey ABS ones.

So these are some new ABS plastic ones, but modified. I had some aluminium sheet (1.5mm thick) laser cut, and folded one side to give it some rigidity. I then wire brushed both surfaces to roughen it up, and a polyurethane based adhesive was used to hold them together. Lots of clamping...

Hopefully they'll hold up, will update how it goes after summer!




Side skirts installed!



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Old 01-11-2017, 01:12 AM   #486 (permalink)
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Toda High Compression Pistons! - http://omgpham.com/toda-high-compression-pistons

Welllll than...... A couple new things in this update, and possibly a second post regarding some stuff I've been 3D modelling for the build.

First up, managed to install this 5V oil pressure sender and input it into the Megasquirt for full datalogging and dash display through Shadow Dash. The tablet mounted using two magnetic mounts clipped to the eye-ball vents. Works very well and has a very strong hold.

It was surprisingly easy to get working, the sender needs +5v, ground and signal return to the ECU. I happened to use the AD6 input on my Megasquirt, and TunerStudio has a built in wizard to configure your sender.





Developed a slight oil leak into cylinder no. 4 so took valve cover off to replace the gasket. Remember to go genuine valve cover gasket! I've had nothing but trouble with non-genuine valve cover gaskets.




Finally bought some new tyres and fresh alignment done! Hankook RS3 225/45 R15.



Received and installed my IL Motorsport bonnet lifts, not sure if I like them yet.



To be continued below....
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:28 AM   #487 (permalink)
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Default Re: mrpham's ITB build

This car is the sex that never ends
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:30 AM   #488 (permalink)
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.... continued


Next up, I had some spare parts accumulating and was able to put together this LED bar kit. It's operated via RF remote control that looks like a bomb detonator, the LED light bar and associated electronics (now enclosed in water-proof case) are mounted just behind the front bar.






Garage Star Coil-on-Plug adapter acquired!



Toda forged pistons!!! They are 11.0:1 compression ratio and +3mm overbore, made from a special alloy with very littler thermal expansion which allows it to run factory Mazda piston-to-bore clearances. Toda also designed the skirt to allow usage of factory oil squirters. I also ordered the matching overbore head gasket from Toda.




Some close ups of the pistons.


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Old 01-11-2017, 06:15 AM   #489 (permalink)
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3D Modelling & Printing - http://omgpham.com/3d-modelling-printing

Ahoy!

Lately I've been spending more time learning how to model parts in 3D, still new so bare with me. It's not a new concept to me, but I am using Fusion 360 mainly now and sometimes a bit of SolidWorks.

I've done some prints in the past, a good example would be the bulk head connector plate I drew up and printed. Had it installed in the car while I waited for the final piece to be laser cut from steel.




And now I'm starting to move onto slightly more detailed designs. Starting of with "remixing" a design from Thingiverse.

4AGE Black Top Velocity Stack - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25207

And my "remixed" version, which is basically modified for Silver Top engines instead of Black Top and increasing overall length to 115mm.

4AGE Silver Top Velocity Stack - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2016083



I than scrapped that design altogether and did one from scratch, increased the radius lip profile and removed the side bracing. The print below was done in ABS and I'll be testing it for clearance and heat resistance. If all goes well, I'll most likely print my final design in ABS. If not, other materials like Nylon and Poly-carbonate are alternative options for heat resistance.





And this is another*design I quickly modelled. Main differences being the bottom flange, length adjusted to 105mm and the dimpled internal surface. NO idea how that'll work for airflow, good or bad, but it's fun drawing these and 3D printing them! The idea is from dimpled surfaces on golf balls, and I've seen shops machine dimples onto the back of inlet valves and cylinder head ports.




And this is how the print came out.... About halfway up the velocity stack, the wall was a tiny bit too thin and the dimples were too deep! Not something I was expecting, but I'll learn from this one and make revisions. This print was also done at 300 micron layer height, I think it needs to be 100-200 micro next time.




And finally, this is an airbox/plenum that will mount to my current Pipercross filter plate. Still needs some work here and there, but I'm pretty set on the general shape of it and the inlet is 4.5" diameter. The final product could be moulded from the 3D print and made with carbon fibre, or possible printed entirely out of fibre infused nylon for strength and heat resistance.



More to come!
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:03 AM   #490 (permalink)
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Default Re: mrpham's ITB build

You have all the fun man.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:14 AM   #491 (permalink)
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You have all the fun man.
Download yourself a copy of Fusion 360! It's free for hobbyists/students, and use 3dhubs.com to find someone local to print for you. Prices can be very cheap through 3dhubs.com
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Old 01-11-2017, 01:08 PM   #492 (permalink)
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Love it. After seeing your posts on facebook/instagram I'm already brain storming how to pull this off on my car. Just need to build my inlet manifold first.
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:51 PM   #493 (permalink)
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Wow there's some really cool stuff going on here. Dying to know (and how to test) if the dimples do anything in the stacks. I'm also thinking that 3D printing would be a far cheaper way of testing the efficiency of staggered stacks in different arrangements. I wanted to try several configurations myself, but it promised to be an expensive experiment if just buying up a bunch of other shops' stacks and trying them out.

Keep up the good fight!
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:13 PM   #494 (permalink)
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Love it. After seeing your posts on facebook/instagram I'm already brain storming how to pull this off on my car. Just need to build my inlet manifold first.
When my designs start getting better, I'll put them up on Thingiverse.com to share. I'm thinking about redesigning my T3 manifold.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:16 PM   #495 (permalink)
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Wow there's some really cool stuff going on here. Dying to know (and how to test) if the dimples do anything in the stacks. I'm also thinking that 3D printing would be a far cheaper way of testing the efficiency of staggered stacks in different arrangements. I wanted to try several configurations myself, but it promised to be an expensive experiment if just buying up a bunch of other shops' stacks and trying them out.

Keep up the good fight!
I'm guessing they could be bolted to a head and flow benched, or dyno. Good chance it'll do nothing to improve the numbers

I'd definitely recommend Fusion 360 (free) and 3D hubs if you want to get started. Happy to share my files too.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:44 PM   #496 (permalink)
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This is a long shot, but I remember watching some guy porting a Hyundai head and he left the bottom of the port slightly rougher and made the top extremely smooth to cause a "tumbling" effect that increases low/mid-end torque by causing slower air (at lower RPM) to create a buffer and faster air to be injected into the chamber at a higher velocity. Do you think adding the dimples in any certain way can make some sort of similar effect?
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:54 PM   #497 (permalink)
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This is a long shot, but I remember watching some guy porting a Hyundai head and he left the bottom of the port slightly rougher and made the top extremely smooth to cause a "tumbling" effect that increases low/mid-end torque. Do you think adding the dimples in any certain way can make some sort of similar effect?
Apparently the position and size of the dimples matter.

I've been told that only curved surfaces should be dimpled, and they should vary from larger to smaller (or other way around?) in the direction of flow?
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:11 PM   #498 (permalink)
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Apparently the position and size of the dimples matter.

I've been told that only curved surfaces should be dimpled, and they should vary from larger to smaller (or other way around?) in the direction of flow?
I think it is larger to smaller.

The reason a golf ball can go farther than a normal ball is because the dimples reduce the wake behind the ball. This increase in pressure allows the ball the travel farther.

I can only presume, but having dimples on the flat part of the horn will do nothing but increase drag. However, if you put the dimples around the rim of the horn where it's most curved (reducing dimple depth as the curve decreases towards the bottom of the rim), it may allow air to, "...[cling] to the [horn]'s surface."

Edit: I also think having the least amount of diameter change from the top of the horn to the bottom will help increase flow. It would reduce the pressure created from the (quite literal) bottleneck and allow air to flow faster.

This is the article
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A moving object has a high-pressure area on its front side. Air flows smoothly over the contours of the front side and eventually separates from the object toward the back side. A moving object also leaves behind a turbulent wake region where the air flow is fluctuating or agitated, resulting in lower pressure behind it. The size of the wake affects the amount of drag on the object. Dimples on a golf ball create a thin turbulent boundary layer of air that clings to the ball's surface. This allows the smoothly flowing air to follow the ball's surface a little farther around the back side of the ball, thereby decreasing the size of the wake. A dimpled ball thus has about half the drag of a smooth ball.
I hope this helps. ^_^
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:07 PM   #499 (permalink)
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This is amazing. That wiring harness and fuse block has me all kinds of hot and bothered.
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Old 01-12-2017, 06:58 AM   #500 (permalink)
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I think it is larger to smaller.

The reason a golf ball can go farther than a normal ball is because the dimples reduce the wake behind the ball. This increase in pressure allows the ball the travel farther.

I can only presume, but having dimples on the flat part of the horn will do nothing but increase drag. However, if you put the dimples around the rim of the horn where it's most curved (reducing dimple depth as the curve decreases towards the bottom of the rim), it may allow air to, "...[cling] to the [horn]'s surface."

Edit: I also think having the least amount of diameter change from the top of the horn to the bottom will help increase flow. It would reduce the pressure created from the (quite literal) bottleneck and allow air to flow faster.

This is the article


I hope this helps. ^_^
Something like this would be better? And also varying the dimples depth/diameter?

http://a360.co/2iKjFSL
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Old 01-12-2017, 11:44 AM   #501 (permalink)
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I'm guessing they could be bolted to a head and flow benched, or dyno. Good chance it'll do nothing to improve the numbers

I'd definitely recommend Fusion 360 (free) and 3D hubs if you want to get started. Happy to share my files too.
Thanks! Downloading those apps now. I understand there are now even 3D printers that make stuff from metal? Not sure if itd be the right type of metal for something like this. Actually, I'll bet the plastic trumpets may even help to resist heat-sink...

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Old 01-12-2017, 12:50 PM   #502 (permalink)
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When my designs start getting better, I'll put them up on Thingiverse.com to share. I'm thinking about redesigning my T3 manifold.
I have a rough design I've come up with for the NB heads that I plan on having made out of aluminum plates and tubes with some post machining/cleanup. I planned on having a 10-20 slant to it to match the angle of the port and clear the shock mount with longer runners/velocity stacks/air box.
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:53 PM   #503 (permalink)
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Something like this would be better? And also varying the dimples depth/diameter?

http://a360.co/2iKjFSL
Yeah that's what I'm talking about, but if you can, make it more like a golfball. Look up Callaway HX (which uses hexagons) or Titleist ProV1 or ProV1x balls on Google images. Those balls I find have the best distance and control, so their designs must correlate with that.
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Old 01-27-2017, 01:14 PM   #504 (permalink)
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Did some small revisions to my airbox design, also quickly mocked up the rest of the components for it. And looks like I'll probably have the airbox printed using Taulman Nylon Alloy 910, very strong and should hold up against the heat.

Inlet diameter on the airbox is 108mm (4.25"). The duct will be made using laser-cut aluminium sheet, it will also hold the 300mm x 300mm panel filter. I'm planning on mounting the duct under the radiator support alongside a half-sized radiator from a Honda Civic. This should be give me the lowest air temps as well as providing good filtration and high flow.

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Old 01-27-2017, 03:23 PM   #505 (permalink)
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interested to see how it'll flow. Does Fusion have a air flow program?

-Henry
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Old 01-27-2017, 08:23 PM   #506 (permalink)
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interested to see how it'll flow. Does Fusion have a air flow program?

-Henry
It has a simulation mode but I haven't looked into it.

Someone has also mentioned that this theoretical set-up could have too much of a ram air effect. What do you think?


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Old 01-27-2017, 10:22 PM   #507 (permalink)
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FYI I had one of those oil pressure sensors fail when it was bolted to the block. Turns out they don't like vibration. We ended up buying a new sensor and mounting it with a SS soft line up to one of the top hat bolts.
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:38 PM   #508 (permalink)
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It has a simulation mode but I haven't looked into it.

Someone has also mentioned that this theoretical set-up could have too much of a ram air effect. What do you think?


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Throw a vacuum port on the airbox and find out. You already have an unused map sensor right?
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Old 01-28-2017, 12:09 PM   #509 (permalink)
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It has a simulation mode but I haven't looked into it.

Someone has also mentioned that this theoretical set-up could have too much of a ram air effect. What do you think?


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That won't have a ram air effect at all in my eyes. Ram air intakes are usually short, have a smaller inlet that opens up into a larger plenum/box to slow down the air before it enters the throttle bodies. I think you have essentially made a cold air intake w/ a ducted opening. I would smooth out the transition between the duct and the pipe.

-Henry
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Old 01-30-2017, 12:56 PM   #510 (permalink)
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Default Re: mrpham's ITB build

John,

If you send me an STL or a file I can open with solidworks, I can flow analyze it for you.

-Henry
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